Sunday, December 21, 2008

Paces Notes for further reading; Penaga Club, Brunei

Nature walks in Brunei - PNHS 1997, edited by Jacqueline Henrot
Contains information on nature walks and their habitat in Brunei Darussalam
Brunei Darussalam, A Guide - Brunei Shell
Contains information on walks in Brunei Darussalam
Mountains of Malaysia - John Briggs
A comprehensive guide to the mountains of Peninsular and East Malaysia. Brigg's descriptions of the jungle are very informative although his route descriptions are now, however, somewhat dated. The treks upon which his book are based must have taken place in the late seventies and early eighties, before regular tourist trails were established. He also seemed to adopt a siege approach to any climb, accompanying his group with many local guides and porters (judging from the photograph on page 148, half the able bodied men from Pa Ukat and Pa Umor are standing on the summit of Batu Lawi!).
These two factors combine to result that he significantly over estimates the difficulty and duration of any ascent. For example, the return trek to Batu Lawi, which we completed comfortably in three and a half days, is described by Briggs as a five to seven day expedition "not suitable for casual tourists". Still the best book to use for planning your mountain and jungle trips.
Mount Kinabalu, A Guide to the Summit Trail - Sabah National Parks
A detailed description of the Tourist Trail with general information on flora, fauna and the geography of the mountain.
Stranger in the Forest: On Foot Across Borneo - Eric Hansen
Just in case you were thinking that a one day trek to Bario was something special, this book will bring you back down to earth. It describes Hansen's seven month journey in which he travelled roughly North - South across Borneo and back again. The first part of his journey, in which he walked either alone or with Punan guides, took him from Marudi to Bario via Long Seridan. Although he does not name it specifically, I think he must have entered Bario via the Kubaan trail which he describes as a "major highland footpath" crossing the Tamabo mountain range at a pass called Punga Pawan above the village of Ara Dalan (his spelling, pages 85 - 91).
SOS - Ron Foster and Robert Neil
An account of the ill fated British Army expedition down Lowe's Gully in 1994, describing how the team survived for weeks on little more than boiled sweets, and provides a stark contrast to the comforts of the Tourist Trail and the Laban Rata rest house.
World Within: A Borneo Story - Tom Harrisson
An account of life in the Bario highlands prior to 1945 by one of the first Europeans to visit the area. Harrisson describes Kelabit customs, religion and life style in great detail although little of this pre Christian culture now remains.
The second half of the book deals with the exploits of the special forces (led by Harrisson) who were parachuted into Bario in 1944 to form a resistance movement against the Japanese. This includes a description of the ascent over the Tamu Abu range on the Kubaan trail by one of Harrisson's officers who was obviously not a fan of the jungle:
Borneo Jungle (An Account of the Oxford University Expedition of 1932)
Tom Harrisson, who later became famous for his wartime exploits in Bario, edited this book which contains personal accounts of the expedition by several of it's members. Amongst them was Edward Shackleton (the son of the Arctic explorer) who made the first ascent of Mulu in 10 days during November 1932.
Australian Geographical Magazine - July/September 1995
An account of the 1993 Australian expedition to climb the main peak of Batu Lawi. The article contains superb photographs and a vivid description of the trek and climb, but is short of any technical climbing data (they left better information in the Camp 2 visitors book).
Useful Addresses
Samson Bala Palaba
c/o SSB Dept. FSU/222B Telephone (from BSP): 74-4700
Borneo Jungle Safari Fax: 60-85-417-984
Home address: Lot 2233
Sin Siang Hai Gardens,
(turn off left ~500m before the airport)
Miri, 60-85-615-453
Samson's family come from Pa Umor five kilometres north of Bario. Villagers from here and Pa Ukat built the two permanent camps on the way to Batu Lawi (Samson's father was vice chairman of the project).
Samson has a small travel agency in Miri and is experienced in organising treks around the Bario area (e.g. Batu Lawi, Murud, Bario to Bakalalan). Even if you are planning to make an independent trip, Samson is a very useful contact to arrange guides, porters, transport etc.
Tarawe's (formerly Bario Airtel)
John & Karen Tarawe Miri Telephone: 085-414400
P.O. Box 5, Bario, Bario Telephone: Telecom M'sia Radio
Kelabit Highlands Tel 1064 Ext. 404
Baram 98050,
Sarawak, Malaysia.
Very friendly and informal lodging house. Clean three bedded rooms with a separate shower and toilet block (approx. M$12 per bed and M$10 per meal - will also allow you to cook your own food). John & Karen have contacts all over the area and can also arrange local guides and trekking excursions, though these would be best booked in advance. Note that if they have run out of beer it can be bought for M$ 6 per can from the old lodging house opposite.
Sabah National Parks
Lot 3, Block K, Sinsuran Complex,
P.O. Box 10626,
88806 Kota Kinabalu,
Sabah, Malaysia
Telephone (60-88) 211881, 211652, 211585
Fax 60-88-221001,
Borneo Eco Tours
Telephone 60-88-234009
Fax 60-88-233688
Api Tours
Sabdin Said
Fax 60-88-424174
Appendix 1 Equipment List for jungle trips
Equipment List for jungle trips
Essentials
Optional
Rucksack
X
Sleeping Bag & Carry Mat
X
Torch & Spare Batteries
X
Lanterns (candle lanterns)
X
Firelighters (Hex)
X
Matches/Lighter
X
Mug, Cutlery, Plate & Bowl
X
Cooking Pan & Utensils
X
Water Bottle (2 litres minimum)
X
First Aid Kit
X
Rehydrating Salts (Servadrat - Smarts)
X
Zinc Powder (anti fungal - Smarts)
X
Chaffing Cream (Sudocream - Smarts)
X
Personal Toiletries (contact lens kit)
X
GPS
X
Map & Scale Ruler
X
Notebook & Pencil
X
Plastic Bags (heavy duty or zip bags) & Heavy Duty Resealable Tape
X
Tarpaulin for temporary shelter (if not planning to reach Camp 1 on first day)
X
Insect Repellent
X
Mosquito Coils
X
Parang
X
Swiss Army Knife
X
Camera, (mini) Tripod & Spare Film/Batteries
X
Toilet Paper
X
Wetties
X
Small Towel
X
Sweat Band
X
Malaysian Ringgits
X
Passport
X
Small Padlock
X
Ear Plugs
X
Film Cases (salt, sugar, talc)
X
String (clothes line, spare laces, building shelter etc.)
X
Main Meals
X
Coffee, Tea, Sugar, Milk Powder
X
Glucose Powder
X
Puritabs
X
Muesli & Powdered Milk (breakfast)
X
Muesli Bars, Nuts & Crisps
X
Sweets (Army ration type in plastic)
X
Beer (leave at Tarawe's)
X
Whiskey (in plastic bottle)
X
Walking Clothing ("wet set")
X
Evening/Sleeping Clothing ("dry set")
X
Extra Underwear
X
Extra Socks
X
Waterproofs (poncho etc.)
X
Gloves (for warmth & protection during climb)
X
Boots
X
Spare Laces
X
Sandals/Flip Flops
X
Guides normally supply some items indicated, some camps are equipped with kettle, cooking pans and mugs

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