A four day trek to the most famous mountain in the Kelabit Highlands.
Introduction
The Bario Plateau lies to the Southeast of Brunei, in Sarawak, adjacent to the border with Indonesian Kalimantan. It is an isolated area with an elevation of some one thousand meters, surrounded on three sides by mountain ranges. On the Southern side of the plateau, rivers drain from the central plain through deep gorges and eventually form the Baram.
Batu Lawi is a very distinctive mountain with twin peaks rising to more than two thousand meters. It is located North of the plateau, some twenty kilometres or two day's walk from Bario. For centuries the mountain has been of religious significance to the Kelabit people who would make long pilgrimages from either Bario or Bakalalan to it's base. More recently, it became an important landmark for the special forces who were parachuted into Bario during the Second World War to form a resistance movement against the occupying Japanese.
Batu Lawi's lower, or female, peak was first climbed in 1946 by Tom Harrisson who erected a memorial to those killed during the campaign against the Japanese. The main, or male, peak is a finger of sandstone which rises more than one thousand feet from the mountain below. The ascent of it's sheer rock faces requires specialist climbing equipment and has only been achieved twice. Firstly by a British Army expedition in 1985/86 and then in 1993 by a group of Australians.
The ascent of the female peak was, until recently, quite an arduous undertaking - involving a return trek of almost a week with overnight stops in makeshift shelters. In 1991, however, a project was initiated to improve tourist access to the mountain. This was sponsored by the Sarawak government at a cost of M$ 50,000 and executed by villagers from Pa Ukat and Pa Umor whose guides and porters will benefit from the resulting tourist income.
The project comprised improvements to the path from Pa Ukat to Batu Lawi, for example the construction log bridges across deep gullies to avoid long detours and the building of two permanent wooden shelters. These are similar to the camps in Mulu National Park, though smaller and less sophisticated since most of the materials were carried in by porters rather than being airlifted by helicopter. The first shelter is located one day's walk from Bario and the second a few hundred meters below the saddle from which Batu Lawi's twin peaks protrude.
These improvements result that the return trip to Batu Lawi can easily be accomplished in four days by any reasonably fit tourist party.
Route Description
The timings in this route description are based upon a trip that was made between Christmas and New Year 1995. Possible alternative itineraries are discussed in a later section.
Day One - Bario to Camp Penaad
The first part of the trek comprises a straight forward walk of some forty five minutes from Bario to Pa Ukat, the village at the head of the trail. The route follows wide cart tracks which, in dry weather are used by mopeds and small trucks. It is a straight road which passes (right hand) turn offs to the new airport and, at about half distance, the road to the village of Pa Umor. Evidence of the traditional agriculture of the highlands - wet rice paddy fields and water buffalo pastures can be seen along the way.
There will probably be some delay at Pa Ukat as your guide pays his respects to family and friends and assembles porters (even if arranged in advance this seems to be very hit and miss - our group had booked four porters to assist in carrying specialist climbing equipment, but departed with only two).
The trail from Pa Ukat passes to the side of rice paddy fields for some fifteen minutes before, after a right hand turn across an irrigation ditch, entering an area of secondary jungle and water buffalo pastures. The path here is has been churned up by cattle and is very muddy. In several places there are forks leading to fords (for the buffalo) and simple bamboo bridges across a wide meandering stream. Keep to the right at any junctions to remain on the main trail up the valley.
After twenty minutes amongst the pastures, the trail emerges in a small area of paddy fields with a number of rice harvesting huts on the left hand side. This is the last cultivated area in the valley and after some ten minutes walk the path enters the jungle. Shortly afterwards, at about one hour's walk from Pa Ukat, you will pass a small dam across a fast flowing stream from which the irrigation and drinking water is taken for Pa Ukat. This marks the start of the trail proper and the ascent towards the pass through the Tamu Abu cliffs.
The ascent follows the stream all the way up the valley with several fords along the way. At one point, some forty minutes from the dam, the path is blocked by a series of fallen trees. Whilst it is possible to push through these and continue following the stream, the correct route is to back track for some fifty meters to make a steep detour up the valley side and across a spur before descending back towards the stream. In December 1995 both trails were equally evident but it will not be long before the detour, which is already well trodden, becomes established as the main path.
After several more fords, the trail passes alongside two huge boulders (on your right hand side) and crosses a small stream. A few hundred meters later there is a clearing across the path which marks the site of our first night's camp. Samson had earlier called this place "Penaad". It is not a regular camping spot - there is no permanent sleeping platform and access to the stream requires a short scramble down a muddy bank. It has probably been chosen in the past due to the availability of huge palm leaves in the vicinity which can be used as bedding and roofing material.
The first of our group arrived here at 16.30 hrs, some two and a quarter hours after leaving Pa Ukat. With the aid of some tarpaulin sheets, our porters soon prepared a comfortable, dry sleeping area.
Day Two - Camp Penaad to Camp 2
The climb from Penaad to the pass over the Tamu Abu cliffs takes around two hours. The first hour is spent in a steepening climb, following the river system up the valley, with several fords. A one point, the path follows the stream bed for about fifty meters before continuing (very distinctly) up the right hand bank. At each ford there are suitable stepping stones although these are slippery and most people elect to walk through the water rather than risk jumping from rock to rock. The trail is never far from water and there are several old hunters campsites along the way.
After about 75 minutes walk from the camp, the trail climbs away from the stream up onto a ridge with steep drops on either side. The path here is good and wide, climbing only gradually towards a viewpoint where the sheer Tamu Abu cliffs can be seen through the trees on the left hand side.
Fifteen minutes later the path leaves the ridge and traverses westward, i.e. left, along the steep cliff base (the bare rock is, however, not visible through the trees above you). The ridge must end at a point where the cliffs are impassable (Briggs implies as much in his book, see later) and the traverse is necessary to bring you below the only gap.
After the traverse, the trail climbs steeply to the pass. This is marked only by a small clearing which has been used as a resting point and camp site (though there is no water here). There is no rising ground visible on either side of the path and it is only the descent into the boulder field fifty meters further that indicates you have passed the highest point. We reached here some two hours after leaving the overnight camp.
On the other side of the cliffs, the change in vegetation is abrupt. The climb has until now been through typical upland primary rain forest, with little change in appearance during the ascent. On the descent, however, the trees are more stunted and everything is covered in thick green moss. This distinct change must indicate that the Bario side of the cliffs are in the lee of the prevailing winds, with the northern side more prone to cloud cover and resulting precipitation.
The other change as one descends the pass is the boulder field. Rather than a muddy footpath, the trail now passes through a series of moss covered boulders more than a meter in diameter. These are very slippery and progress becomes quite slow. In a number of places there are deep holes between the boulders, some of which have been bridged by short logs.
The descent from the pass is gradual, with a change in elevation of less than two hundred meters in the ninety minutes walk to Camp 1. During the first half of this section the trail passes through three main boulder fields before continuing alongside a narrow stream. Everything remains covered in thick brown and green moss, even the banks of the stream, which gives the water a peaty appearance though it is quite clear when collected.
At several stream crossings there are vast mats of an umbrella fern Dipteris Lobbiana, a montaine species that thrives on rocky ground which is frequently covered by fast moving water.
As the stream widens, there are a number of fords and several log bridges. Most of the bridges are small although two, over the deepest gullies, are built from very large trees more than six meters long. The path in this area is in very good condition, though occasionally swampy, and fast progress can be made.
Suddenly the trail emerges at the side of the Ulu Limbang river. This is of marked contrast to the streams along the descent, being more than ten meters wide, meandering and stained brown with tannin. Two hundred meters later, surrounded by thick grass teeming with leeches, lies the wooden hut at Camp 1.
Camp 1 was our lunch stop on day two. We reached it at 12.00 hrs after leaving Penaad at 08.15 hrs and pausing for some twenty minutes at the Tamu Abu pass. It is a totally enclosed hut with a central fireplace and ventilation openings between the walls and ceiling. Outside there is a clothes drying line and a long "park bench" type seat next to the river. The hut comfortably slept our group of eight on the return leg and could probably accommodate ten before becoming too crowded.
There is a fading sign in the hut giving the names of the villagers from Pa Umor and Pa Ukat who were involved in it's construction. It includes a memorial to the four workers who were killed when a flight between Bario and Marudi crashed at Long Seridan in 1992.
After waiting until 13.30 hrs for the last of our group to arrive at Camp 1, and enjoying one of Samson's culinary delights for lunch, we finally began to depart for Camp 2 at 14.30 hrs. This, it transpired, was far too late to be able to reach our destination in the safety of daylight.
After crossing the river in front of the camp, the trail continues along flat, swampy ground for at least forty minutes. There are several river crossings, the last three of which are within a few hundred meters of each other and comprise fords across rocky stream beds. This marks the start of the gradual ascent up to the ridge walk section of the trail.
We were warned by Samson that there were several hunters trails which left the ridge and that we should take care not to descend too early. Whilst we saw several side trails (principally to the right of the main path) these were much less distinct. In several places side trails were symbolically blocked by an "X" of cut saplings to avoid confusion and the main trail was regularly marked with parang marks blazed into the tree bark. I doubt whether anyone following the trail in daylight could stray from the correct path. Nevertheless, Seamus and I marked our trail with toilet paper at any junction to assist those who followed.
The walk along the ridge lasts for about one hour. The ridge is not sharp but rather flat on top with a number of swampy sections as the path undulates through the mossy forest. At half distance, we found a Punan message stick at the side of the trail, next to the junction with a small hunters trail or pig track. We were later told that this point offered, in clear weather, the first sight of Batu Lawi though thick clouds prevented us from seeing anything.
At the start of the long descent the ridge narrows. A wide valley can be glimpsed through the trees to the right whilst the sound of a fast moving stream can be heard far down to the left. The jungle floor here is very open and the path becomes less distinct. In several places it was necessary to check for the parang marks on the trees to confirm that we were on the correct trail.
A few minutes into the descent, at a right hand bend, trees have been cut at the left hand side of the trail to give a view of Batu Lawi. The view from here is spectacular (I have seen photographs) as you are now only two or three kilometres from the summit. Unfortunately, cloud cover prevented us from seeing anything on the outward journey and we missed the spot on the return.
Three hours after leaving Camp 1, we reached Sungai Tabun - a fast flowing stream at the foot of the ridge. The path continues on the other side of the stream and climbs away for some 100 meters before swinging right to follow the bed of another stream. After some 15 meters along the stream bed there is a sharp right turn up the bank (marked again with a parang cut in a tree).
The trail climbs over a small ridge before descending again. In the bottom of the valley is a log bridge over a deep gully. This is the most difficult bridge of the trip, especially as it comes near the end of a very long day's walk. The log is more than eight meters long yet only some forty centimetres in diameter and slippery. The drop to the stream below must be at least three meters as the tops of trees and shrubs along it's bank were below the level of the log. Seamus and I crossed this point at 17.40 hrs, in the gloom of an overcast dusk. The rest of our party were some thirty minutes behind and our porters, who had tidied up at Camp 1 before their departure, crossed in the dark with one fading torch. It is essential that you make an earlier start from Camp 1 to avoid the risk of crossing this point in the dark - there seemed to be no obvious detour.
After another ten minutes we reached a ford over a third stream which also forms part of the Sungai Tabun system. The last twenty minutes before Camp 2 were spent on a steep ascent up Batu Lawi itself. Just before the hut comes into view, the trail passes a rough helicopter landing area on the right hand side (built not to assist in the construction of the camp, but more recently to fly in a high ranking army officer on a "pilgrimage" to the mountain) and finally over a very small stream which provides the drinking water to the camp.
We arrived at 18.05 hrs, just over three and a half hours after leaving Camp 1. Though we had spent some time checking out side trails along the route, we walked quickly to avoid becoming caught in the dark and, ideally, four hours should be allowed for this leg.
Camp 2 is of similar construction to Camp 1, though slightly smaller. It is beginning to show signs of neglect as one of the floor cross members has already collapsed leaving one half of the room some four inches lower than the other and providing a convenient access for rats (we saw none, though the visitors book gave details of earlier "visits"). This hut is surprisingly warmer than Camp 1, being some two hundred meters lower and located in a more sheltered spot.
Check out the visitor's book for details of earlier expeditions including the Australian party who climbed the main peak in 1993.
Day Three - Camp 2 to Batu Lawi Summit and Camp 1
Immediately after leaving the camp the trail begins to climb steeply. Initially it follows a small ridge where the sound of a stream (probably the same as passes next to Camp 2) can be heard below to the left. It then continues to wind up the side of the mountain - look out for parang marks blazed on the trees as in several places the jungle floor is open and it is difficult to make out a regularly worn trail.
Some forty minutes after leaving the camp, there is an excellent view of the main peak as the trail passes along the edge of a small land slip. Ten minutes later the path steepens markedly as it continues to the right of a sheer rock face. The vegetation also changes at this point with the start of the mossy forest. The last ten minutes to the saddle are a scramble up over moss covered boulders and between stunted tree roots. In one place a thin nylon rope has been placed to provide an additional hand hold.
We reached the saddle an hour after leaving camp 2. To emerge on the saddle is breathtaking after the ascent under the forest canopy as the vegetation here is low and offers wide views. To your right (north) is the main peak and to your left the female. In front of you are views towards Bukit Batu Iran and behind you, in clear weather, Murud can be seen.
From your position low in the saddle with the two peaks towering close by on either side, it is difficult to judge their height. The female peak appears only a short scramble away (rather than half an hour's hard slog) and whilst the main peak looks impressive, there are better view from the path to the female peak. Even though we had partial cloud cover we were lucky as some groups reach the saddle with both peaks shrouded in mist, then climb the secondary peak and return without ever having seen the main peak!
The scramble to the secondary summit is steep and similar to the last ten minutes up to the saddle. The only change is the excellent views and the fact that, in several places, there are sheer drops of more than a hundred meters either side of the path. Nylon ropes have again been placed to provide hand holds up the steepest sections.
Twenty minutes from the saddle, you reach a large overhang where a brass replica of Tom Harrisson's plaque has been fixed. It was erected in 1987 by a group of Australian servicemen who had made an earlier ascent in 1985 to decipher all they could from the original wooded memorial. The remains of the Harrisson's plaque can also be found at this point, in a cleft in the rock, along with several other mementoes left by more recent climbing parties.
A rough rope ladder has been fixed to assist the climb up this overhang from which it is only a short scramble to the summit itself. From here are the best views of the main peak as you are now of similar elevation and some five hundred meters away. Take time to enjoy the views but to not follow the tradition of writing your name on one of the rocks!
After spending some time on the summit, the descent to Camp 2 should take about one hour. If you had set off for the summit after breakfast it should now be time for lunch.
The trek back to Camp 1 took the first of our group three and a quarter hours. We were surprised to be quicker in this direction as there is a net increase in height on the way back. In particular, the ascent from Sungai Tabun up on to the ridge seemed to be a very long uphill slog. Even at a moderate pace, however, you should arrive at Camp 1 with plenty of time to bathe in the (very cold) Sungai Ulu Limbang and set up camp before night fall.
Day Four - Camp 1 to Bario
The trip back to Bario is just a long route march. There is very little uphill walking but at least ten kilometres to cover before Pa Ukat where we were aiming to arrive before lunch. If you only concentrate on covering distance then this leg could become quite boring but instead, take time to photograph the mossy forest and listen out for wildlife.
During the four days, different members of our group encountered wild boar (disturbing a whole family at a small stream and, on a second occasion, a large male who crashed away through the undergrowth), red leaf monkeys (difficult to identify high in the canopy, but definitely brown), small squirrels and heard gibbons early in the morning at Camp 1. The trek from Camp 1 to Pa Ukat took us some five hours.
Figure 2 The route to Batu Lawi
List of Waypoints
Description
Co-ordinates
Time
(Timbali)
Ascent
Descent
Elevation
1
Bario
N 03° 44' 28.5"
Tarawe's Lodging House
E 115° 27' 42.9"
Depart 13.00 hrs
Arrive 17.00 hrs
1000 meters
2
Pa Ukat
N 03° 45' 38.6"
Arrive 13.45 hrs
Depart 16.20 hrs
Village at the head of the trail
E 115° 29' 09.4"
Lunch
1020 meters
Depart 14.15 hrs
Arrive 13.10 hrs
3
Dam
Water supply to Pa Ukat
15.15 hrs
Start of jungle walk
4
Temporary Camp "Penaad"
Arrive 16.30 hrs
One of several suitable sites
Overnight Camp
11.30 hrs
on the ascent up the valley
1180 meters
Depart 08.15 hrs
5
Ridge below Tamu Abu Cliffs
View Point before short descent
9.30 hrs
and traverse towards the pass
1625 meters
6
Pass over Tamu Abu Cliffs
Arrive 10.00 hrs
Start of Boulder Field &
10.00 hrs
Mossy Forest
1670 meters
Depart 10.25 hrs
7
Camp 1
N 03° 50' 39.2"
Arrive 12.00 hrs
Depart 08.10 hrs
Permanent shelter next to
E 115° 26' 16.0"
Lunch
Overnight Camp
Sungai Ulu Limbang
1500 meters
Depart 14.30 hrs
Arrive 16.15 hrs
8
Ridge
15.40 - 16.40 hrs
1670 meters
9
Sungai Tabun
Two fords & one log bridge
17.25 - 17.45 hrs
over deep gully
1100 meters
10
Camp 2
N 03° 52' 00.7"
Arrive 18.05 hrs
Depart 13.00 hrs
Permanent shelter at Pa Tabun
E 115° 23' 36.9"
Overnight Camp
Lunch
1300 meters
Depart 08.10 hrs
Arrive 11.45 hrs
11
Saddle
09.10 hrs
11.00 hrs
1700 meters
12
Female Peak
N 03° 52' 07.8"
Arrive 09.40 hrs
E 115° 23' 00.8"
1870 meters
Depart 10.40 hrs
Notes:
1. Departure/arrival times were for the first members of the party. At least 20% extra time should be allowed for each leg.
2. Approximate elevations were measured by Neil Casson using a divers watch.
3. Time constraints and thick tree cover prevented me from taking more GPS fixes. The path between the camps is, however, reasonably straight except for a slight dog leg on the descent from the ridge towards Sungai Tabun. Briggs's book provides a good sketch map.
Planning the Trip.
Planning the Trip
Our itinerary was probably the best that could be achieved with an early morning flight into Bario. The trek from Bario to Camp 1 will take at least seven hours and with flight delays and porters to organise, this would be almost impossible with an arrival in Bario around 10.30 hrs.
Setting off from Bario or Pa Ukat in the early morning, however, the two permanent camps are ideally situated at the end of the first and second day's walk. In fact, the relatively short distance between Camps 1 and 2 opens up the possibility of reaching the summit on day two and spending spare time on the way back fishing or exploring the area around Camp 1.
Our itinerary offered no contingency should the summit be shrouded in cloud or bad weather delay our ascent. A possibility would have been to leave Camp 2 for the summit before dawn to catch the sunrise (and, from experience on Trusmadi, the clearer weather before cloud begins to rise from the valleys). Our late arrival the previous evening, however, resulted that nobody suggested this!
We could have improved our itinerary by making earlier starts in the morning and eating a cold lunch rather than a full cooked meal. This would have left more time for relaxing at the end of each day's walk and, on day two, avoided the potentially dangerous arrival in Camp 2 after dark.
Flights into Bario are notoriously unreliable, a situation that may only marginally improve with the opening of the new runway which is scheduled for mid 1996. It is essential that you plan alternative routes into Bario (fly/walk via Bakalalan, drive/walk via Lawas and Bakalalan or as we were forced to do on an earlier attempt, fly/boat/drive/walk via Marudi, Long Temala, WTK logging concession and the Kubaan Trail!). Make sure that you have one or two days spare at the end of your trip, before your boss/wife/girlfriend begins to panic, to make sure that any delay in reaching Bario does not result in your whole trip being scrubbed. Note that space on the Marudi - Bario charter flights cost M$ 2/kilo (for you and your luggage!) outward when space is at a premium but that the return flight is only some M$ 50 per person.
Whilst it is not necessary to make the trip on a guided tour, since the trail is very clear, protocol probably dictates that you employ one or two porters from Pa Ukat as a minimum. These should be booked in advance - see useful addresses later.
Permits
Permits to visit the Ulu (interior) - are officially required for any non Malaysian travelling above Marudi. If you arrive on a scheduled MAS flight for an organised tour (with Samson Bala for example) this requirement is usually waived. On the other hand, those hoping to make their own arrangements with local porters or who may be forced to take alternative routes into Bario in the event of flight cancellations, are strongly advised to have the correct paperwork.
Permits can be obtained in advance from the Residents Office in either Miri, Marudi or Limbang. The standard procedure is to first visit the police station with two copies of your passport in order to gain clearance for the trip. You will be required to complete a form with your profession, other personal details and the purpose of your trip (ecologists, journalists, members of Greenpeace etc. are automatically excluded at this stage!). The police inspector endorses the form which you then take to the Residents Office where you complete yet another form to enable your permit to be issued.
Climbing the Main Peak
Our group included two experienced climbers who intended to make an attempt on the main peak. They brought with them a considerable amount of technical climbing gear and had allowed an additional twenty four hours at Camp 2 to complete the ascent.
After receeing the peak from the saddle, however, they abandoned their attempt for two main reasons. Firstly, it had rained considerably during the night and the cloud base was then below the main peak. Wet weather or poor visibility during the climb would have posed a major risk. Secondly, whilst they assessed that the climb was within their capabilities, there were no other members of our party who could have offered assistance if they got into difficulties.
Bearing in mind the grade of the climb (see later), unreliable weather and remoteness of the mountain, attempts to climb the main peak should only be made by parties of four to six experienced mountaineers, with the time and resources necessary to adopt a siege approach. This has been the method used on the two previous successful attempts (the first group of British Army climbers in 1986 even had helicopter support for re supply and any casualty evacuation!).
Paul Casson, one of our climbers, had been unable to source any technical information from the two earlier ascents and provided this information from the visitors book in Camp 2 and his own reconnaissance:
The first ascent in 1986 was via the North Ridge after unsuccessful attempts from the saddle (up the Southern Face) and two days trekking round to this easier route.
The second ascent was via the South East Buttress (perhaps the more difficult side but visible from the saddle or secondary summit and better suited to photographs for Australian Geographical magazine!). Starting from the saddle, this group traversed Eastwards up easy slabs before ascending using grooves and corners on the East Face. Midway in the ascent, they made a rising traverse onto the South Ridge which offered clean rock before the angle becomes easier close to the summit.
The ascent comprised five technical rock climbing pitches (presumably fifty meters each) and was indicated in the visitors book as "Grade 20". If this refers to Australian climbing grades, this is equivalent to British "Hard Very Severe/E1 5a/5b". There was no information to suggest whether this referred to the whole climb or just one particularly difficult section. Fixed ropes and jumars were probably used to allow the whole party to make the ascent over the several days they remained at Camp 2.
Paul added that from the aerial photographs, and our MAS sponsored fly past on the way in, there appears to be another feasible route on the South West corner, via an angled ramp that is obscured when the main peak is viewed from the saddle or secondary summit.
Geology
Batu Lawi's exposed rock faces have a distinctive white appearance that led to the mountain being mistakenly identified in the past as being of limestone. It is, however, composed of sandstone as are most of the surrounding mountains (the nearest limestone outcrops are probably in Mulu National Park).
Neil Casson advised that the sandstone of Batu Lawi and the Tamu Abu cliffs, is well cemented and of the Meligan Formation of the Late Oligocene to Early Miocene age (17 - 30 million years old). It is significantly harder than the surrounding rocks and has resisted weathering, resulting in the spectacular appearance of these two features.
Access from the Logging Concessions / Kubaan Trail
Standing on the summit of Batu Lawi, no evidence of logging was visible in any direction. My GPS, however, indicated that a way point taken a few weeks earlier on the logging roads close to the start of the Kubaan trail was less than nine kilometres away. Camp 1 was also a similar distance from a fix taken midway during that walk into Bario.
Whilst the advance of logging towards this beautiful spot is worrying, it opens up the possibility of alternative routes to the mountain. The terrain in the area is undulating but not really mountainous and should pose no serious problems for a well equipped group ready to make camp in the open. (We considered making the trek from the logging concession to Batu Lawi whilst staying at WTK Jelita logging camp, some eleven kilometres from Batu Lawi, the evening before embarking on the Kubaan trail. The idea was rejected, however, because we were not properly equipped, in particular lacking parangs and any materials to make an overnight shelter. Our overland journey had only been necessitated by flight cancellations and we had expected to pick up these essentials in Bario.)
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