Mount Kinabalu Summit Trail
A Weekend Trip from Brunei to Climb the Highest Mountain in Southeast Asia 4101 meters (13,455 feet).
General
The Mount Kinabalu climb is described in almost every guide book on South East Asia and in Sabah National Parks leaflets which are available from any travel agent. This description will therefore be brief and limited to topics not covered in the normal tourist literature.
Two days are required for the climb but, now that flight connections between Brunei and Kota Kinabalu have improved, it is possible to make the trip in a normal weekend, flying out on Friday evening and returning late on Sunday.
Although billed as South East Asia's highest mountain, the climb via the 8.5 km long tourist trail can be accomplished by any reasonably fit individual. The ascent begins from 1,829 meters (6,000 feet) and therefore the climate is pleasantly temperate. Overnight accommodation at the end of the first day is provided in a modern rest house where hot food is available and the (bunk) bedrooms are electrically heated.
It is possible to make the trip as part of an all inclusive package through the usual Brunei travel agents or to arrange everything yourself, dealing directly with the National Parks Office in Kota Kinabalu.
Route Description
Day One
You should aim to depart your hotel in Kota Kinabalu as early as possible on Saturday morning for the 11/2 to 2 hour drive to Park Headquarters. Although there is no risk of you arriving too late to complete the climb before night fall, the weather on the mountain is best in the morning and cloud/rain frequently closes in by mid afternoon. Ideally you should begin climbing before 9.00 am to reach the Laban Rata rest house in time for lunch.
A (free) left luggage service is offered at the Park Headquarters for the clothes that you do not need for the climb.
Upon arrival at Park Headquarters you will need to complete the formalities required for the issue of a climbing permit and hire a guide. All groups must be accompanied by a guide although there is no chance of you straying from the correct path. In busy periods, there may be a shortage of guides when you arrive (even though you will have booked one in advance) since most parties who have spent the previous night in park cabins will have set off up the mountain at about 8.00 am. The park rangers will contact the local village and call up more guides but this can result in a delay of several hours. If this happens, it is best to set off up the trail on your own and rely on the guide catching you up (they always do - most can make it to the Laban Rata in under two hours!). Tell the park rangers what you intend to do (they always give permission) but remember to take with you confirmation of your accommodation booking and a note of your guides name to make sure that you meet up without difficulty and can check into the rest house.
A mini bus service links Park Headquarters with the start of the trail, 4km away near a small power station.
The path up the mountain on the first day is well maintained and has been cut into a series of steps. There are several shelters on the way where it is possible to rest and drink from one of the rain water collection tanks (the water seems very clear and many people have drunk it without difficulty - it's your decision whether you use puritabs).
The trail passes through the full spectrum of upland and montaine forest, from primary jungle through dwarf bamboo, rhododendron and stunted trees covered with moss and lichen. Pitcher plants grow close to the path and your guide will be able to show you the best specimens which usually require a few meters scramble up or down from the main trail. The flora and fauna along the route are described in great depth (by real experts!) in many books and therefore I will not go into further detail here.
The climb to the Laban Rata rest house at 3,353 meters (11,000 feet) is advertised as taking between four and six hours. This is somewhat pessimistic, however, as a fit person can easily complete the ascent in under four hours and the average tourists will normally have reached the rest house in under 5 hours.
About twenty minutes before the rest house the Crokker sandstone which covers the lower slopes gives way to grey granite and this is a good indication that you are approaching the end of the first day's climb.
Day Two
The two to three hour climb to complete the ascent begins before dawn to enable you to view the sunrise from the summit. The guide will want to wake you at 2.00 am for a 2.30 am start to be sure of reaching the top in time. Before committing to a departure time, you should assess your fitness from your time for the first day's climb and balance the risk of arriving too late with that of a long wait in the cold wind of the summit as you wait for dawn.
The first part of the climb takes you up through rhododendrons and small stunted trees. The path is very steep in places and wooden ladders have been placed over stretches where the tree roots do not provide sufficient support.
After about 45 minutes you emerge above the tree line and the trail continues up the bare granite mountainside. The trail is still steep for a further 20 minutes with fixed ropes provided in a number of places (in fact ropes are placed for almost the whole of the route across the summit plateau to provide a reference point in case cloud descends. The path on and off the plateau is also marked with boulder cairns).
The Sayat Sayat hut at 3,810 meters (12,500 feet) marks the start of the summit plateau and the end of the steep climb. The ascent to the summit now becomes more gradual although the shape of the plateau obscures the view of Lowe's Peak for some time. On the way you will pass several other peaks (Donkey's Ears, South Peak, St. Johns Peak etc.) all of which are only a few meters lower than Lowe's Peak but almost impossible to climb without specialist equipment.
The climb up the last few hundred meters to Lowe's Peak is a scramble across a large boulder field. There are fixed ropes but the effects of altitude result that most people need to rest several times during the short final ascent.
The summit affords a good view into Lowe's Gully where the British Army expedition became trapped in 1994. It is only after seeing the sheer granite walls, which rise almost vertically for several thousand feet, that you begin to appreciate the impossible situation that they got themselves into.
After watching the sunrise, descend to the Laban Rata rest house (1 to 2 hours) to have breakfast and collect your other clothes. From there, the walk back to the power station and the road to the Park Headquarters should take between two and four hours depending on how stiff your legs have become from the previous days climb.
A National Park bus operates from the power station to the Park Headquarters and saves you an hour's road walk home. During quiet periods the driver is often reluctant to depart without a full load of passengers but a M$ 10 "special hire charge" (best negotiated by your guide) is normally sufficient to persuade him!
There are two simple shower cubicles behind the Park Headquarters next to the souvenir shop. Ask one of the rangers for the key.
Back at the headquarters you can purchase your certificate of achievement (there are even versions for those who didn't make it - with a blank space for the guide to fill in the height at which you gave up!) and T shirt with a suitably modest slogan ("It's hard to be humble when..." etc.).
The public bus service back to KK is intermittent. If you are on a package tour a mini bus will have been organised through your tour operator, if you are making your own arrangements it is a good idea to have something booked in advance (try telephoning Api tours or Borneo Eco Tours. These agents often have space on busses returning to KK)
Accommodation on the Mountain
Laban Rata rest house. Most people stay here as it has electrically heated rooms, (occasionally) warm showers and a good canteen. The bunk beds are fitted with a rough sheet and thin blanket although extra thick blankets are available for hire at M$ 1 each (ask early as they always run out). The availability of a canteen means that it is not necessary to carry any food up the mountain - not even your first days lunch as you should reach the rest house in plenty of time.
The Laban Rata also has a small shop selling beer and soft drinks, sweets, chocolate, playing cards, (cheap) torches and batteries, candles and, when in stock, woollen gloves and balaclavas. The prices are all very reasonable considering that everything needs to be carried up from Park Headquarters.
Other Huts at 11,000 feet. These simple huts are normally used by army groups but can also be hired by the general public. There is no heating or bedding materials so you will have to bring warm sleeping bags. Gas stoves are provided although most people would still eat in the Laban Rata which is only a few minutes walk away. If you insist on doing your own cooking, simple provisions such as mee and tinned meat can be purchased in the Laban Rata shop.
Sayat Sayat Hut. At 12,500 feet, this is the highest fixed accommodation on the mountain and is normally only used by parties staying on the summit plateau for more than one day. If you press onto the summit on day 1 then this would also be a good place to spend the night on the way down rather than try to reach Laban Rata before nightfall. The hut is draughty and very cold - you will need to be completely self contained regarding bedding, food and cooking gear. The area is also said to be infested with rats.
Clothing
Shorts & t shirt for the ascent on day 1
Walking boots (leather or gortex alpine type with ankle support for the rocky terrain are best although many people use training shoes, canvas "jungle boots" are not necessary)
Long trousers/leggings & shirt for evening in the rest house and the second days ascent to the summit.
Extra warm layer for the summit (fleece jacket, sweater or light anorak)
Gloves (for warmth and protection on the ropes - a good solution is cheap woollen gloves inside plastic gardening or diving gloves. The two layers keep you both warm and dry.)
Warm headgear or scarf for the summit (Thai grass cutters balaclava is ideal!).
Waterproofs (poncho).
Spare socks & underwear.
Other Things to Remember
Small rucksack (pack everything in plastic bags in case of heavy rain)
Water bottle
Small first aid kit (include Sudocream against chaffing and Aspirin/Panadol for altitude induced headaches)
Ankle/knee supports or tubigrip bandage in case of sprains
Torch and spare batteries
Puritabs and, optionally, glucose powder for making the drinking water along the trail more palatable.
Malaysian Ringgits
Sunscreen and chapped lip ointment
Toiletries & Small Towel
Camera (400 ASA film - best for early morning shots, is rarely available in the shops at the park).
Cut your toe nails before you set off or you may find the descent painful.
No comments:
Post a Comment