The first ascent of Mulu was made in 1932 by Edward Shackleton as a jaunt at the end of the 1932 Oxford University expedition to Borneo. The mountain had, before then, defied several attempts to climb it by various European explorers and members of Brooke's administration. Mulu is surrounded on all sides by steep escarpments and limestone cliffs which proved impassable to these early adventurers.
The route through the cliffs was discovered by chance by a rhinoceros hunter who tracked an animal along the course of the Sungai Melinau Paku river and up onto the ridge below the summit. Shortly afterwards, he guided Shackleton along this route which is still used by the tourist trail.
Mulu is one of the toughest mountain treks in North Borneo that is regularly made by tourists. The difficulty comes from the length of the trail (a round trip of some forty five kilometres) and the fact that the ascent to 2,376 meters (7,795 feet) begins close to sea level. Nevertheless it is well within the capabilities of a reasonably fit person and only lightweight packs need be carried since there are permanent wooden shelters at each of the overnight camp sites.
Day One
Depart National Park Headquarters (Waypoint 1) for the 5.6 km walk to Camp 1. The trail follows a plank walk for the first 500 meters before descending to the jungle floor. Just after the plank walk the path passes over some limestone outcrops and it is necessary to watch carefully for the red/white trail markers.
After 200 meters the path becomes distinct and wide, passing through generally low lying muddy ground with numerous log bridges over small streams. People who have made the trek in very wet conditions report that this section of the trail is prone to flooding.
After about one hours walk the trail crosses Sungai Melinau Paku (Waypoint 2). Spectacular limestone cliffs can be seen either side of the trail at this point. This is a good rest spot as it is about half way to Camp 1 and the shingle on the river bank is relatively free from leeches.
For the next 2 - 3 km the trail continues through low lying primary rain forest, past the turn off to the Sarawak Chamber and slowly ascends to Camp 1 at approximately 150 meters (Waypoint 3). 500 meters before Camp 1 the path crosses a fast moving stream. There are (slippery) stepping stones but it will be necessary to wade unless the water level is very low (if you have managed to keep your boots dry up to this point take them off and carry them as you should then be able to continue for most of the next dry with dry feet).
The total journey time to Camp 1 is approximately 2 hours including a short stop at Waypoint 2.
Camp 1 is a partially enclosed hut with a raised sleeping area which should accommodate 12 people comfortably. There are separate toilets and a good spot for bathing and filling water bottles at a stream 20 meters away. Food is cooked over an open fire just outside the hut.
Day Two
The trail from Camp 1 ascends gradually at first towards Camp 2 at the 7.5 km marker. This is not a permanent camp but a small clearing on the right hand side of the path by a small stream and is the last guaranteed water source before Camp 3 at 11.8 km. If you have left Camp 1 with 2 - 3 litres it will probably not be worth filling up here.
After Camp 2 the trail becomes increasingly steep with sections between the 10 km marker and Camp 3 requiring the use of hands to pull yourself up through tree roots and small saplings. Immediately before Camp 3 the path levels through a boggy area where a number of planks have been placed across the trail. This area is frequently cloud covered and moss covers most of the trees.
Camp 3, at approximately 1300 meters (Waypoint 5) marks the halfway point on day two. It is reached after just over three hours walk and is a good lunch stop. There is a hut of similar (but more recent) construction to Camp 1, with toilets and water available from rainwater tanks.
After Camp 3 there is a very steep 2 km ascent up Bukit Tumau to the ridge which leads to Camp 4 and the summit. At a number of points ropes have been placed to assist where the trail is steepest and hand/foot holds most difficult to find. Erosion along the path indicates that it would form a small stream in heavy rain.
The 14 km point, at approximately 1500 meters (Waypoint 6), marks the end of the main ascent and the start of the ridge. From here to Camp 4 the path is relatively level with only gradual ascents/descents as the trail climbs slowly for almost 5 km towards Camp 4 at 1800 meters. There is now a distinctively different vegetation with the low level primary rain forest having given way to small stunted trees and bushes. Large pitcher plants are also in abundance. At several places along the ridge there are good view points across the Mulu mountain range.
Camp 4 at 18.8 km (Waypoint 8) is a very simple raised hut with four corrugated iron walls and roof. The eaves are open to let out the smoke from the fire which is used for cooking and for warmth. The helipad which was used to ferry in building materials is 50 meters further down the trail and affords good views of the next day's ascent to the summit.
Day Three
The ascent to the summit from Camp 4 takes approximately 1.5 hours. This means that the signpost at Park Headquarters, which indicates the total distance of the summit trail as 24 km, must be wrong. The last trail marker outside Camp 4 shows 19.5 km from where we estimated that it was no more than 2.5 km to the summit.
Three distinct peaks of increasing height can be seen from the Camp 4 helipad. These are actually only points where the trail climbs less steeply and there seem to be no distinct "valleys" between each peak.
The trail is very steep in places with almost vertical stretches where it is necessary to make use of fixed ropes. The vegetation has also changed to the "mossy forest" or "cloud forest" with all the stunted trees covered in a thick layer of moss. The slopes here a frequently covered in cloud and everything is wet for the majority of the time.
After the first steep ascent, where the trail levels at the first "peak" (Waypoint 9), there is a very good view back along the previous day's trail. Bukit Tumau, the ridge from the 14 km marker to Camp 4 and the helipad can be clearly seen.
The main summit is large and relatively flat with two distinct high points. The first one reached (Waypoint 10) is about 50 meters lower than the second (Waypoint 1l), 150 meters away, where there is a trig. point and an abandoned weather station.
There then follows the long descent to Camp 1 which will take approximately 7 hours, including short meal breaks at Camps 4 & 3.
Day Four
Following a night at Camp 1, return to Park Headquarters.
Waypoint
Description
Co-ordinates
Arrival Time
Arrival Time
on Ascent
on Descent
1
Park HQ
N 04° 02' 33 1"
Departed 13.20 hrs
E 114° 48' 38.7"
2
S Melinau Paku River
N 04° 02' 53.3"
14.20 hrs
Crossing
E 114° 50' 00.9"
3
Camp I (Helipad)
N 04° 03' 06.9"
15.20 hrs
14.45-15.45 hrs
E 114° 51' 10.4"
Departed 07.20 hrs
4
10 km Marker
N 04° 02' 20.3"
09.15 hrs
E 114° 52' 36.2"
._
5
Camp 3 Helipad
N 04° 02' 19.5"
10.30 hrs
E 114° 53' 06.5"
6
14 km Marker
N 04° 01' 58.6"
12.20 hrs
E 114° 53' 26.6"
7
17 km Marker
N 04° 02' 28.3"
13.45 hrs
E 114° 54' 10.8"
8
Camp 4
N 04° 02' 41.7"
14.20-15.50 hrs
09.40 hrs
E 114° 54' 39.9"
Departed 06.40 hrs
9
First "Peak" on the Summit Ascent
N 04° 02' 51.4"
07.30 hrs
E 114° 55' 06.4"
10
Mulu Summit - First High
N 04° 02' 45.0"
08.10 hrs
Point
E 114° 55' 29.5"
11
Mulu Summit - Trig. Point
N 04° 02' 47.1"
08.20 hrs
Departed 08.40 hrs
E 114° 55' 37.2"
Timing
Our trip lasted four days/three nights with two overnight stops at Camp and one at Camp 4. The disadvantage of this is that whilst days 1 & 4 are short 2 hour walks to/from Park HQ, days 2 & 3 are very long slogs. With a reasonably early start, it would certainly be possible to reach Camp 3 on day 1 which would then reduce the following day's ascent to Camp 4. This would also open up the possibility of reaching the summit on day 2, leaving the option of descending either to Camp 1 or to Park HQ on day 3.
This alternative itinerary may, however, not be popular with the guides who seem to use the short day 1 to assess their customers' fitness. It would also mean that the first day's provisions would need to be portered further up the mountain to Camp 3 rather than to Camp 1. It should also be noted that Camp 3 will be cold at night whilst Camp 1 is comfortably warm.
Several weeks after our trip, two other groups tried this alternative itinerary. One group, who arrived in the park the previous evening, made an early start and reached camp 3 in late afternoon. The following day they were able to make a round trip to the summit with only light packs (waterproofs, lunch etc.), returning to camp 3 by early evening. The second group, however, flew into Mulu in the morning, attempted to reach camp 3 the same day but were forced to turn back to camp 1 when it became clear that they would not reach camp 3 by nightfall.
Equipment
The equipment list is attached in appendix 1 - each persons rucksack weighed just over 10 kg, including water. The most important things to note are that overnight accommodation is in huts so no camping equipment is required and that cooking/eating equipment is provided by the guides. Camp 4 is very cold at night and a lightweight sleeping bag and an extra layer of warm clothes are indispensable. A black plastic bin liner was also useful to cover the end of the sleeping bag and preserve warmth. Essentials for this trip is insect repellent and salt to remove leeches.
Food
Food provided by the guides is basic but adequate. Rice, "maggie mee", eggs and tinned meat/fish feature in most meals. The only food that you will need to take are luxuries such as biscuits, nuts, crisps and muselie bars. Two tips that were useful on our trip were:
Buy fruit flavoured glucose powder (available from any supermarket) and add it to drinking water, possibly with a little salt. This takes away the taste of the Puritabs that you will have added, provides energy and helps guard against mineral loss from dehydration.
Take Alpen or other high energy muselie in a plastic screw top jar together with some milk powder. This is light and, with water added, can be used to supplement breakfast or lunch.
Guides
Our trip of seven persons was accompanied by three "guides":
The National Park ranger whose presence is mandatory although he was of little use. He was, however, the only one of the three to make it all the way to the summit.
A Punan porter who carried the park ranger's gear and about half the food. He made the complete ascent to Camp 4 barefoot!
The Tropical Adventure "tour guide" who carried much of the food and cooked all the meals. Although he was pleasant and helpful, he had never made it to the summit before (his other trips had all turned back) and he had little information to offer on the local flora, fauna or geography. Remember that the guides get paid whether you make it to the summit or not. Mulu guides are notorious for spreading gloom and despondency or setting a crippling pace in the hope that you will turn back and they may get home a night early. Keep your own pace.
Also do not rely on the guides to stick with the back marker, in spite of the fact that there are many places to slip and fall. It is inevitable that members of the party will not all keep the same pace but do try to keep in groups of two or three.
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