General
Gunung Murud, 2,423 m (7,946 ft), is the highest mountain in Sarawak. Murud is located in the mountain chain surrounding the Kelabit Highlands in north-east Sarawak. It is very close to the Indonesian border. In fact, on one side of the mountain, the lower end runs into Kalimantan. The mountain has a massive appearance from afar. In some places it has very precipitous sides. Almost vertical rockfaces block direct access from the south.
The conventional route up the mountain is a turn-off from the main Bareo to Ba Kelalan track. This trail starts from the south and curves up the side of the mountain, finally approaching the summit from the north-east. This is essentially the same as Mjoberg's route in 1922.
Starting from Bareo, a journey to the summit of Murud takes 3-4 days. After an initial long walk along the main Bareo-Bakelalan track, the trail goes through a flat area of multiple river crossings and then up the side of Murud onto a long summit ridge. Continuation to Bakelalan takes 1-2 days. Bario-Murud- Bakelalan can be done in 5 days.
The summit ridge is superficially similar to that of other high Borneo mountains such as Trusmadi and Mulu. However, on Murud the mountain flora is particularly impressive. There is a tremendous profusion of orchids, pitcher plants, mosses and other plants. This display is at a peak during the orchid flowering season around September. This period is a good time to climb Murud, although there is risk of considerable rain.
Route description
Bario-Murud-Bakelalan
Description of a tour with organised via Samson Bala Palaba in 1996
September 07th ( Saturday )
0815 hrs Touring Party (TP) converges at Miri Airport.
0900 hrs ETD Miri on MH 3622 on transit in Marudi. ETA New Bareo Airport @ 0945 hrs. Once cleared from the airport, the TP will 'prance around' Bario. Late afternoon, depart for the village of Pa' Umor ( Sampson's village ). A 1.1/4 hour walk on laterite clay path in open country. Accommodation provided by Sampson's family. A stroll in Pa' Umor + a dip in the river. Overnight Pa' Umor
September Q8h ( Sunday )
0750 hrs Everyone should be packed, had breakfast and ready to move. ETD Pa' Umor for the Camp Long Rabpun @ 0800 hrs. Trekking in open country to the village of Pa' Ukat and from there on to another village, Pa' Lungan. This sector will take between 3.1/2 - 4 hrs and the TP will break off for lunch at Pa' Lungan. This is an interesting nature walk. At the right time of the year, there are masses of flowering rhododendrons with red, orange. and white flowers. There are quite a lot of pitcher plants and common orchids. There are also masses of dipteris ferns.
1200 hrs ETA Pa' Lungan & break off for lunch. ETD Pa' Lungan @ 1330 hrs. Jungle trekking from Pa' Lungan is on fairly flat ground and in leech country. It can be very muddy during rainy season. After about 1.1/2 hours the trail then goes steeply over a ridge and drops down to Long Rabpun. Apart from varied flora and fauna and a Rafflesia nest located at point 40 mins to arriving at Long Rabpun, there is nothing interesting to note on this trail.
1730 hrs ETA Long Rabpun. This is the site of a former long house burnt by a patrol of defeated Indonesian army - and is on the bank of the Pa' Dabpur river. There is a shelter - bamboo roof, sawn timber for floorings and semi-walled - mainly use by hunters and travellers, and is surrounded by hundreds of big bamboos. It is quite scenic and beautiful. A cool and refreshing bath in the river will do you a lot of good. Overnight camp Long Rabpun.
NOTE The state of the river at Long Rabpun will determine progress-. There are 6 crossings to make ( after Long Rabpun ) - 2 of which are very tricky & considered 'dangerous' and if the water level is exceptionally high, all attempts to proceed to Camp-1/2 Way-Up on this day should be abandoned. Decision: Proceed on to Pa' Rupai in Kalimantan or wait until the river subsides.
September 09th ( Monday )
0750 hrs Everyone should be packed, had breakfast and ready to move.
ETD Camp Long Rabpun @ 0800 hrs. In ideal conditions, allow 6-7 hours for this section as actual time depend very much on the state of the rivers - See also NOTE. Trekking on flat ground and there will be six river crossings. The river can be forded when the water is waist deep or up to the thighs. The last crossing is at the base of the ridge that leads to Gunung Murud, where it forks to accommodate the base of the ridge. Further on is a strategic and convenient site to rest for lunch. A good camping site when going into Bario from the Bakelalan or vice-versa
1300 hrs Depart for Camp-Half-Way-Up-Murud. Gradual climbing for an hour before it rise steeply to a mere flat level at an altitude of 5,770 feet where the camp site is. It takes about 2 - 3 hours to get here from the east river crossing.
1530 hrs ETA Camp Site. This site is known as Camp-Half-way-Up Murud. It is only a 'basic Boy scout camp site', where tents will have to re~built. It can be uncomfortable when it rains. A small creek provides the source of fresh water, where one can also can clean and splash bath - with difficulty. Definitely not as luxurious' as Camp Long Rabpun Overnight Camp.
September 10th ( Tuesday )
0750 hrs Everyone should be packed, had breakfast and ready to move. ETD Camp Site @ 0800 hrs. It is ascending as soon as you set foot and it will be a strenuous morning. After about an hour's ascend, the trail goes steeply uphill and then emerges out of the tall forest on to the steep open side of Gunung Murud providing a view of the vast Pa' Dapbur plain. One must scramble up steeply through the moss to emerge on the summit ridge. The summit ridge is very broken with vertical sections and the odd drops and is covered with bushes, mossy forest and small tress. The vegetation is thick and often coarse requiring a lot of ducking and scrambling during trekking. As many as 7 varieties of pitcher plants and a lot of mountain orchids can be found on this stretch. The trail rises towards the summit at the S-W end of the mountain.
1330 hrs ETA Summit at 7,946 feet. On a clear day one can see as far as Bareo Airport, Gunung Mulu, the nearby Batu Lawi and the Kalimantan border. If visibility is good, the haunting silhouette of Gunung Kinabalu can be seen in the far distant. The summit is often immersed or surrounded in thick mist and cloud, thus frustrating your visibility; and, it can be quite cold, but on a hot sunny day, a pail of sun block will be very useful indeed !!
1430 hrs ETD Summit for the Church Camp. The trail gradually descends through the open ground towards the North into the Garden of Rocks. This area is beautified by lots of wild mountain orchids, heathers, sparsely distributed stunted trees and rocks of all sizes and shapes. The crossing of a stream (crystal clear water) after 60 minutes marks the end of the open ground and the rest of the trail is under forest canopy and mossy ground until you get to the Church Camp at 6000 feet.
1730 hrs ETA Church Camp. The Church Camp has a cluster of about 80 shacks ( each with it's own fire place ) and there is a common bathing area and a latrine ! In 1989, a Church ( with a seating capacity of 1000 ) was built here. The shacks - with aluminium zinc roof, walled by sawn timbers, were built to accommodate worshippers on pilgrimage here annually. The whole compound is considered ' Holy Ground ' and people are advised not to Smoke and Drink Alcohol; and to keep it the area clean. Overnight Church Camp
September 11 (Wednesday)
0745hrs Everyone should be packed, had breakfast and ready to move. ETD Church Camp @ 0800 hrs. The first 40 minutes is a steep climb to the summit ridge at an altitude of 6,800 feet. This is followed by an hour and a 1/2 ridge walk before the trail descends steeply and converges with a timber track leading towards the main timber track in the direction of Bakelalan. Some amount of time will be spent trekking on timber track before another descend into a stream - Pa' Rabata - where the TP will break for lunch. The trekking here is messy, made miserable and unpleasant by the sight of logged forest and muddy waters. After lunch, there is an hour's ascend, on timber track, to the 'blockade' point before turning right into the jungle. The last 2.1/2 hours is under forest canopy, including the final descend into the vast Kelalan Valley.
17.30hrs ETA Bakelalan. The TP will be accommodated at a private 'lodge': complete with satellite dish, TV and is quite comfy. After a hearty refreshment, it is cleaning up time ! The rest of the afternoon is at leisure. Bakelelan has about about 7 villages, all within walking distance from Buduk Nur' - the centre point. It is a beutiful place.
September 12 (Thursday)
0900 hrs Everyone should still be in bed. Absolutely No rush 11
0930 hrs Breakfast
1000 hrs Check-in at Bakelalan Airport
1050 hrs ETD Bakelalan for Lawas on MH 3604
1120 hrs ETA Lawas. Hire a cab into Lawas town.....
1345 hrs ETD Lawas for Miri
1430 hrs ETA Miri
CLASSIFICATION OF TOUR
Strenuous throughout and it is not for casual tourists. Every day involves almost a full day of trekking ( averaging 8 hours ). There will be hills and mountains to climb. Cost (when arranged with Sampson) are as follows:
02 Pax ( Minimum ) : RM 1,400.00
04 Pax : RM 1,100.00
05 - O9 Pax : RM 900.00
10- 14 Pax : RM 750.00
Cost is Ex-and -Return Miri Airport and is inclusive of airfare, accommodation, all meals ( food ), 2 full-time porters - to carry rations, and with Sampson ( or his personal nominee ) guiding.
Exclude: Fee of personal portage- Going rate now is RM 60.00 per day + 2 days for return trip from Bakelalan cost of alcohol & liquor; and, food/drinks taken outside the package.
Bario-Murud-Bario
A suitable plan for a 6-day return trek to the summit from Bareo is as follows:
Day 1: Bareo to Pa Lungan. Assuming you arrive by air at Bareo before noon, you can reach Pa Lungan the same day.
Day 2: Pa Lungan to Long Rapung
Day 3: Long Rapung to Half-Way-Up-Murud
Day 4: Return scramble to Murud summit from Half-Way-Up-Murud
Day 5: Half-Way-Up-Murud to Long Rapung
Day 6: Long Rapung to Bareo
If there is heavy rain, the rivers may be in flood and difficult to cross. You may have to wait 24 hours for the water to subside. Although you may be able and willing to cross flooded water, your guides may not. A long rope for river crossing would be useful in wet weather.
Pa Lungan to Long Rapun
Allow 5 hours for this section. This is the main track to Ba Kelalan. Once on the track, the way is obvious. The track is flat at first and then goes steeply up over a ridge and drops down to Long Rapung.
Long Rapung is on the bank of the Rapung river. There is a shelter built by Indonesian hunters, surrounded by very large bamboo. The shelter is heavily infested with insects attracted by scraps of animal meat discarded by the hunters. A very smokey fire or a lot of insect repellent is needed to avoid continuous insect bites. A tent sheet may be needed as the roof may be in bad condition. Long Rapung is the site of a former longhouse with 70 people. However, it was attacked by Indonesian forces during the Confrontation War and abandoned. It then became the site of a helicopter landing pad for some years. Near Long Rapung the main trail continues to Long Rupai in Indonesian territory and then onto Ba Kelalan (back in Sarawak). Another trail, now disused, goes around Indonesian territory to reach Ba Kelalan by a longer route.
Long Rapung to Half-Way-Up-Murud
Allow 7-8 hours for this section. The time depends on the state of the rivers.
First, the Rapung river must be crossed. This can be forded easily: the water is only waist deep. However, in rainy conditions it may be necessary to cross over on a makeshift bridge of fallen or cut down bamboo. After about an hour, there is a left turn off the main trail towards Murud. This turn-off is in a small, dark valley and is not obvious. The main trail continues to Kalimantan, as described earlier. The land is quite flat and there are at least four main river crossings. The first one is just after another Indonesian-built hunting shelter at Pat Liuk. The final one is at the base of Murud. The main river crossed is the Dapur (called the Ulu Dapur upstream) which may be crossed three times. Near the base of Murud is an old platform built by the Survey Department. This could be a convenient campsite. There is a steep trek up the side of Murud for 12-2 hours to a campsite at about 1,750 m (5,770 ft). This site is known as Half-Way-Up-Murud. The site is in tall and quite dark mossy forest. There are a lot of orchids. There is a stream about 10 minutes down from the campsite.
Half-Way-Up-Murud to The Summit
It is a long and strenuous day from the campsite up to the summit of Murud and back down again. It is important to take ponchos to guard against heavy rain. Also take a torch to help find your way back in the late afternoon. If you intend to camp at the summit itself, take water for the overnight camp.
This is an established hunting route so the trail is actually marked with parang cuts while the forest is tall. The trail goes steeply uphill and the emerges out of the tall forest onto the steep open side of Murud. One must scramble up steeply through moss to emerge on the summit ridge.
In clear conditions there are good views south from the summit ridge. The disused airstrip at Pa Lungan can be seen as a brown patch in gres jungle on a bearing of 160ø.
The summit ridge is very broken. At some places, vertical sections must be climbed using small tree roots for foot and hand holds. Often there are long vertical drops by the side of the trail, right down the mountain side and down bare rock. The ridge top is quite rocky. Care must be taken not to fall into deep holes, obscured by vegetation. The summit ridge is covered with bushes and small trees. The trees bent and twisted. The vegetation is thick and often coarse. There is a lot of moss and lichens. The trail rises towards the summit at the south-west end of the mountain. The summit itself is a broad flattish area, crater-like in shaE The vegetation has been cleared from part of the summit and several other areas on the summit ridge. These areas make suitable campsites. In dry periods there may be no water. The summit ridge is often immersed in thick mist and cloud and buffeted by driving rain and wind. It can be quite cold. The Author recorded a temperature of 11øC at 6.00 p.m. Minimum night temperatures are commonly 6øC. On a clear night one can see the lights of the oil installations off the Brunei coast. In daytime, the view from the summit is often obscured by cloud. However, on a clear morning, the twin peaks of Batu Lawi can be seen on a bearing of 250ø. If you are returning to the campsite at Half-Way-Up-Murud for the night, it is important to leave the summit by 3.00 p.m. at the latest. If you delay past this time, there is a real risk of being caught out on the summet ridge at dusk.
Retum to Bareo
Starting from Half-Way-Up-Murud, Long Rapung can easily be reached one day. The next day, Bareo can be reached by late afternoon (this includes a lunch stop at Pa Lungan).
General
Guides can be obtained from Pa Lungan longhouse, 5-6 hours walk from Bareo. To reach Pa Lungan, follow the main path east out of Bares The path reaches Pa Ukat longhouse in one hour. It passes around the right side of the longhouse and then north to Pa Lungan. There is a for about 30 minutes beyond Pa Ukat, in a pineapple patch: take the right fork (if in doubt, always take the main path).
About 30 minutes from Pa Lungan, an abandoned airstrip is reached. The whole of Murud mountain can be seen clearly from here. The trail continues along the left side of the airstrip.
The whole trail to Pa Lungan from Bareo to Pa Lungan is an interesting nature walk. At the right time of year, there are masses of flowering rhododendrons with red, orange and white flowers. There are quite a lot of pitcher plants (the pitchers of Nepenthes stenophylla are particularly striking) and common orchids. There are masses of lush Dipteris ferns. The terrain is quite open. Some of it is under cultivation particularly near the two longhouses, and much of it was cultivated some time in the past. Because of the altitude, the air is cool and not humid like the lowlands.
Pa Lungan is a 28 'door' longhouse, with up to 300 people. Guides for Murud can be obtained from the Ketua Kampung. Guides should be requested in advance-by writing to the Ketua
Kampung (preferably in Malay). If you turn up without warning, guides may not be immediately available and a wait of days may be necessary.
Gunung Murud is not suitable for the casual tourist. It is essential to come properly equipped. Provided you do not actually camp on the summit, you can sleep on a wooden platform under a plastic or nylon-tent sheet. You must bring the tent sheet with you and bring ponchos for the guides.
The summit of Murud is likely to be cold, windy and wet. An enclosed tent is highly desirable. Do not forget tents for your guides.
Expect to pay $20 per day for each guide. For 5 days from Pa Lungan, a return trip up Murud will cost $200 for two guides. The guides will also appreciate instant coffee and sugar-both locally expensive commodities .
Montane forests
Montane forests begin to be recognisable around 800 metres above sea level. There is no sudden transformation from the mixed dipterocarp forest but a gradual change in character. The appearance of tree ferns amongst the high stature trees is the first indication of the transition. As the altitude increases, the climate becomes cooler, wetter and tree height and diametre decrease. At the higher altitudes, trees are merely 1.5 metres tall.
The forest has a unique atmosphere created by the drift of clouds and the profusion of hanging mosses, liverworts, orchids, and ferns that cover the trunks and branches of the trees. At higher elevations, even the ground is covered with epiphytes, plants that normally grow high in the trees at lower elevations.
Species from families associated with the temperate regions of the world are common, e.g., Quercus and Lithocarpus from the oak family, Rhododendrum and Vaccinium from the heath family.
Many plants have small thick leaves which decompose slowly when dead, especially at these lower temperatures. As a result, the organic litter accumulates, releasing little of its nutrients, and plant growth is slow. Pitcher plants are well adapted to these conditions and abound on the forest floor, on shrubs, or even in the crown of trees.
The varied mountain terrain
A trek or climb to the summit of a jungle mountain takes one through varied terrain. The route often starts on cultivated land, which is easy to cross. It then goes through secondary jungle or belukar. This is land that was cleared and perhaps cultivated in the past and then abandoned. Moving through belukar can be very unpleasant: it fits most people's conception of jungle as a 'green hell'. The vegetation is short, but very dense and hot. Visibility is often zero except along a path. Belukar gives way to primary jungle. This is undisturbed jungle, essentially unchanged for millions of years, and it is a very different world. The trees are very large and tall shooting straight up to form a dense canopy of interlocking branches over 50 m above the ground. The canopy screens out most sunlight, so the ground is very gloomy with speckles of bright light that come down through small gaps in the foliage. The trees are often supported by huge buttresses of roots that snake out along the ground. This terrain is easy to walk through: there is little green vegetation between the trees. However visibility is only about 100 metres, there are no landmarks and it looks the same in al directions. It is very humid with a very constant temperature and the absence of any breeze can make one hot and uncomfortable.
Up mountain ridges, the trees become shorter. There are occasional views out over the forest below. Pine trees may appear, with their characteristic cones. At around 1,200 m, the trees change to a forest: on the ground one finds huge acorn nuts that have fallen from the canopy above.
As altitude is gained, the temperature falls, the humidity drops, and light breezes on ridges make the terrain far more comfortable than the lowland forest.
At about 1,000 m - though this may not happen until twice this height-one enters mossy forest. Clumps of moss hang from the branches of stunted trees, cover their trunks and sit foot-deep around their base. The ground is everywhere covered with patches of bright moss and lichens-green, red, yellow and every shade of brown. Sometimes the moss is so dense that you can find yourself walking through tunnels of the stuff.
Many pitcher plants are found in mossy forests. Clumps of squat ground pitchers sit nestled on beds of moss, and elongated aerial pitch hang from vines high up. At higher altitudes, above 2,000 m, the vegetation becomes thick shrub a few metres high. Its leaves are small, thick and tough to resist solar radiation and prevent loss of water. They contrast with the large thin leaves of the lowlands. The trees are now very short and stunted. Rhododendrons, with their red, orange, yellow or white flowers are now very prominent. At lower altitudes, the flowers are high up in the tree-tops. Now they are at head height. Temperatures now vary enormously during the day. On the summits of at about 2,600 m , night temperatures usually plunge below 5oC. Daytime rain are cold and unbearable without a rain cape.
Mossy forest is swept by low clouds and immersed in mist. It is wet and can feel very cold. Mossy forest is an ideal place for epiphytes that grow on other plants and tree trunks above the ground. Their roots are in the air, not the earth and absorb moisture from mist and rain. Mossy forest contains many epiphytic orchids that grow on tree branches and clefts in tree trunks. One of the most beautiful displays of orchids can indeed be seen on Gunung Murud, during the flowering season in September.
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