A four day trek to the most famous mountain in the Kelabit Highlands.
Introduction
The Bario Plateau lies to the Southeast of Brunei, in Sarawak, adjacent to the border with Indonesian Kalimantan. It is an isolated area with an elevation of some one thousand meters, surrounded on three sides by mountain ranges. On the Southern side of the plateau, rivers drain from the central plain through deep gorges and eventually form the Baram.
Batu Lawi is a very distinctive mountain with twin peaks rising to more than two thousand meters. It is located North of the plateau, some twenty kilometres or two day's walk from Bario. For centuries the mountain has been of religious significance to the Kelabit people who would make long pilgrimages from either Bario or Bakalalan to it's base. More recently, it became an important landmark for the special forces who were parachuted into Bario during the Second World War to form a resistance movement against the occupying Japanese.
Batu Lawi's lower, or female, peak was first climbed in 1946 by Tom Harrisson who erected a memorial to those killed during the campaign against the Japanese. The main, or male, peak is a finger of sandstone which rises more than one thousand feet from the mountain below. The ascent of it's sheer rock faces requires specialist climbing equipment and has only been achieved twice. Firstly by a British Army expedition in 1985/86 and then in 1993 by a group of Australians.
The ascent of the female peak was, until recently, quite an arduous undertaking - involving a return trek of almost a week with overnight stops in makeshift shelters. In 1991, however, a project was initiated to improve tourist access to the mountain. This was sponsored by the Sarawak government at a cost of M$ 50,000 and executed by villagers from Pa Ukat and Pa Umor whose guides and porters will benefit from the resulting tourist income.
The project comprised improvements to the path from Pa Ukat to Batu Lawi, for example the construction log bridges across deep gullies to avoid long detours and the building of two permanent wooden shelters. These are similar to the camps in Mulu National Park, though smaller and less sophisticated since most of the materials were carried in by porters rather than being airlifted by helicopter. The first shelter is located one day's walk from Bario and the second a few hundred meters below the saddle from which Batu Lawi's twin peaks protrude.
These improvements result that the return trip to Batu Lawi can easily be accomplished in four days by any reasonably fit tourist party.
Route Description
The timings in this route description are based upon a trip that was made between Christmas and New Year 1995. Possible alternative itineraries are discussed in a later section.
Day One - Bario to Camp Penaad
The first part of the trek comprises a straight forward walk of some forty five minutes from Bario to Pa Ukat, the village at the head of the trail. The route follows wide cart tracks which, in dry weather are used by mopeds and small trucks. It is a straight road which passes (right hand) turn offs to the new airport and, at about half distance, the road to the village of Pa Umor. Evidence of the traditional agriculture of the highlands - wet rice paddy fields and water buffalo pastures can be seen along the way.
There will probably be some delay at Pa Ukat as your guide pays his respects to family and friends and assembles porters (even if arranged in advance this seems to be very hit and miss - our group had booked four porters to assist in carrying specialist climbing equipment, but departed with only two).
The trail from Pa Ukat passes to the side of rice paddy fields for some fifteen minutes before, after a right hand turn across an irrigation ditch, entering an area of secondary jungle and water buffalo pastures. The path here is has been churned up by cattle and is very muddy. In several places there are forks leading to fords (for the buffalo) and simple bamboo bridges across a wide meandering stream. Keep to the right at any junctions to remain on the main trail up the valley.
After twenty minutes amongst the pastures, the trail emerges in a small area of paddy fields with a number of rice harvesting huts on the left hand side. This is the last cultivated area in the valley and after some ten minutes walk the path enters the jungle. Shortly afterwards, at about one hour's walk from Pa Ukat, you will pass a small dam across a fast flowing stream from which the irrigation and drinking water is taken for Pa Ukat. This marks the start of the trail proper and the ascent towards the pass through the Tamu Abu cliffs.
The ascent follows the stream all the way up the valley with several fords along the way. At one point, some forty minutes from the dam, the path is blocked by a series of fallen trees. Whilst it is possible to push through these and continue following the stream, the correct route is to back track for some fifty meters to make a steep detour up the valley side and across a spur before descending back towards the stream. In December 1995 both trails were equally evident but it will not be long before the detour, which is already well trodden, becomes established as the main path.
After several more fords, the trail passes alongside two huge boulders (on your right hand side) and crosses a small stream. A few hundred meters later there is a clearing across the path which marks the site of our first night's camp. Samson had earlier called this place "Penaad". It is not a regular camping spot - there is no permanent sleeping platform and access to the stream requires a short scramble down a muddy bank. It has probably been chosen in the past due to the availability of huge palm leaves in the vicinity which can be used as bedding and roofing material.
The first of our group arrived here at 16.30 hrs, some two and a quarter hours after leaving Pa Ukat. With the aid of some tarpaulin sheets, our porters soon prepared a comfortable, dry sleeping area.
Day Two - Camp Penaad to Camp 2
The climb from Penaad to the pass over the Tamu Abu cliffs takes around two hours. The first hour is spent in a steepening climb, following the river system up the valley, with several fords. A one point, the path follows the stream bed for about fifty meters before continuing (very distinctly) up the right hand bank. At each ford there are suitable stepping stones although these are slippery and most people elect to walk through the water rather than risk jumping from rock to rock. The trail is never far from water and there are several old hunters campsites along the way.
After about 75 minutes walk from the camp, the trail climbs away from the stream up onto a ridge with steep drops on either side. The path here is good and wide, climbing only gradually towards a viewpoint where the sheer Tamu Abu cliffs can be seen through the trees on the left hand side.
Fifteen minutes later the path leaves the ridge and traverses westward, i.e. left, along the steep cliff base (the bare rock is, however, not visible through the trees above you). The ridge must end at a point where the cliffs are impassable (Briggs implies as much in his book, see later) and the traverse is necessary to bring you below the only gap.
After the traverse, the trail climbs steeply to the pass. This is marked only by a small clearing which has been used as a resting point and camp site (though there is no water here). There is no rising ground visible on either side of the path and it is only the descent into the boulder field fifty meters further that indicates you have passed the highest point. We reached here some two hours after leaving the overnight camp.
On the other side of the cliffs, the change in vegetation is abrupt. The climb has until now been through typical upland primary rain forest, with little change in appearance during the ascent. On the descent, however, the trees are more stunted and everything is covered in thick green moss. This distinct change must indicate that the Bario side of the cliffs are in the lee of the prevailing winds, with the northern side more prone to cloud cover and resulting precipitation.
The other change as one descends the pass is the boulder field. Rather than a muddy footpath, the trail now passes through a series of moss covered boulders more than a meter in diameter. These are very slippery and progress becomes quite slow. In a number of places there are deep holes between the boulders, some of which have been bridged by short logs.
The descent from the pass is gradual, with a change in elevation of less than two hundred meters in the ninety minutes walk to Camp 1. During the first half of this section the trail passes through three main boulder fields before continuing alongside a narrow stream. Everything remains covered in thick brown and green moss, even the banks of the stream, which gives the water a peaty appearance though it is quite clear when collected.
At several stream crossings there are vast mats of an umbrella fern Dipteris Lobbiana, a montaine species that thrives on rocky ground which is frequently covered by fast moving water.
As the stream widens, there are a number of fords and several log bridges. Most of the bridges are small although two, over the deepest gullies, are built from very large trees more than six meters long. The path in this area is in very good condition, though occasionally swampy, and fast progress can be made.
Suddenly the trail emerges at the side of the Ulu Limbang river. This is of marked contrast to the streams along the descent, being more than ten meters wide, meandering and stained brown with tannin. Two hundred meters later, surrounded by thick grass teeming with leeches, lies the wooden hut at Camp 1.
Camp 1 was our lunch stop on day two. We reached it at 12.00 hrs after leaving Penaad at 08.15 hrs and pausing for some twenty minutes at the Tamu Abu pass. It is a totally enclosed hut with a central fireplace and ventilation openings between the walls and ceiling. Outside there is a clothes drying line and a long "park bench" type seat next to the river. The hut comfortably slept our group of eight on the return leg and could probably accommodate ten before becoming too crowded.
There is a fading sign in the hut giving the names of the villagers from Pa Umor and Pa Ukat who were involved in it's construction. It includes a memorial to the four workers who were killed when a flight between Bario and Marudi crashed at Long Seridan in 1992.
After waiting until 13.30 hrs for the last of our group to arrive at Camp 1, and enjoying one of Samson's culinary delights for lunch, we finally began to depart for Camp 2 at 14.30 hrs. This, it transpired, was far too late to be able to reach our destination in the safety of daylight.
After crossing the river in front of the camp, the trail continues along flat, swampy ground for at least forty minutes. There are several river crossings, the last three of which are within a few hundred meters of each other and comprise fords across rocky stream beds. This marks the start of the gradual ascent up to the ridge walk section of the trail.
We were warned by Samson that there were several hunters trails which left the ridge and that we should take care not to descend too early. Whilst we saw several side trails (principally to the right of the main path) these were much less distinct. In several places side trails were symbolically blocked by an "X" of cut saplings to avoid confusion and the main trail was regularly marked with parang marks blazed into the tree bark. I doubt whether anyone following the trail in daylight could stray from the correct path. Nevertheless, Seamus and I marked our trail with toilet paper at any junction to assist those who followed.
The walk along the ridge lasts for about one hour. The ridge is not sharp but rather flat on top with a number of swampy sections as the path undulates through the mossy forest. At half distance, we found a Punan message stick at the side of the trail, next to the junction with a small hunters trail or pig track. We were later told that this point offered, in clear weather, the first sight of Batu Lawi though thick clouds prevented us from seeing anything.
At the start of the long descent the ridge narrows. A wide valley can be glimpsed through the trees to the right whilst the sound of a fast moving stream can be heard far down to the left. The jungle floor here is very open and the path becomes less distinct. In several places it was necessary to check for the parang marks on the trees to confirm that we were on the correct trail.
A few minutes into the descent, at a right hand bend, trees have been cut at the left hand side of the trail to give a view of Batu Lawi. The view from here is spectacular (I have seen photographs) as you are now only two or three kilometres from the summit. Unfortunately, cloud cover prevented us from seeing anything on the outward journey and we missed the spot on the return.
Three hours after leaving Camp 1, we reached Sungai Tabun - a fast flowing stream at the foot of the ridge. The path continues on the other side of the stream and climbs away for some 100 meters before swinging right to follow the bed of another stream. After some 15 meters along the stream bed there is a sharp right turn up the bank (marked again with a parang cut in a tree).
The trail climbs over a small ridge before descending again. In the bottom of the valley is a log bridge over a deep gully. This is the most difficult bridge of the trip, especially as it comes near the end of a very long day's walk. The log is more than eight meters long yet only some forty centimetres in diameter and slippery. The drop to the stream below must be at least three meters as the tops of trees and shrubs along it's bank were below the level of the log. Seamus and I crossed this point at 17.40 hrs, in the gloom of an overcast dusk. The rest of our party were some thirty minutes behind and our porters, who had tidied up at Camp 1 before their departure, crossed in the dark with one fading torch. It is essential that you make an earlier start from Camp 1 to avoid the risk of crossing this point in the dark - there seemed to be no obvious detour.
After another ten minutes we reached a ford over a third stream which also forms part of the Sungai Tabun system. The last twenty minutes before Camp 2 were spent on a steep ascent up Batu Lawi itself. Just before the hut comes into view, the trail passes a rough helicopter landing area on the right hand side (built not to assist in the construction of the camp, but more recently to fly in a high ranking army officer on a "pilgrimage" to the mountain) and finally over a very small stream which provides the drinking water to the camp.
We arrived at 18.05 hrs, just over three and a half hours after leaving Camp 1. Though we had spent some time checking out side trails along the route, we walked quickly to avoid becoming caught in the dark and, ideally, four hours should be allowed for this leg.
Camp 2 is of similar construction to Camp 1, though slightly smaller. It is beginning to show signs of neglect as one of the floor cross members has already collapsed leaving one half of the room some four inches lower than the other and providing a convenient access for rats (we saw none, though the visitors book gave details of earlier "visits"). This hut is surprisingly warmer than Camp 1, being some two hundred meters lower and located in a more sheltered spot.
Check out the visitor's book for details of earlier expeditions including the Australian party who climbed the main peak in 1993.
Day Three - Camp 2 to Batu Lawi Summit and Camp 1
Immediately after leaving the camp the trail begins to climb steeply. Initially it follows a small ridge where the sound of a stream (probably the same as passes next to Camp 2) can be heard below to the left. It then continues to wind up the side of the mountain - look out for parang marks blazed on the trees as in several places the jungle floor is open and it is difficult to make out a regularly worn trail.
Some forty minutes after leaving the camp, there is an excellent view of the main peak as the trail passes along the edge of a small land slip. Ten minutes later the path steepens markedly as it continues to the right of a sheer rock face. The vegetation also changes at this point with the start of the mossy forest. The last ten minutes to the saddle are a scramble up over moss covered boulders and between stunted tree roots. In one place a thin nylon rope has been placed to provide an additional hand hold.
We reached the saddle an hour after leaving camp 2. To emerge on the saddle is breathtaking after the ascent under the forest canopy as the vegetation here is low and offers wide views. To your right (north) is the main peak and to your left the female. In front of you are views towards Bukit Batu Iran and behind you, in clear weather, Murud can be seen.
From your position low in the saddle with the two peaks towering close by on either side, it is difficult to judge their height. The female peak appears only a short scramble away (rather than half an hour's hard slog) and whilst the main peak looks impressive, there are better view from the path to the female peak. Even though we had partial cloud cover we were lucky as some groups reach the saddle with both peaks shrouded in mist, then climb the secondary peak and return without ever having seen the main peak!
The scramble to the secondary summit is steep and similar to the last ten minutes up to the saddle. The only change is the excellent views and the fact that, in several places, there are sheer drops of more than a hundred meters either side of the path. Nylon ropes have again been placed to provide hand holds up the steepest sections.
Twenty minutes from the saddle, you reach a large overhang where a brass replica of Tom Harrisson's plaque has been fixed. It was erected in 1987 by a group of Australian servicemen who had made an earlier ascent in 1985 to decipher all they could from the original wooded memorial. The remains of the Harrisson's plaque can also be found at this point, in a cleft in the rock, along with several other mementoes left by more recent climbing parties.
A rough rope ladder has been fixed to assist the climb up this overhang from which it is only a short scramble to the summit itself. From here are the best views of the main peak as you are now of similar elevation and some five hundred meters away. Take time to enjoy the views but to not follow the tradition of writing your name on one of the rocks!
After spending some time on the summit, the descent to Camp 2 should take about one hour. If you had set off for the summit after breakfast it should now be time for lunch.
The trek back to Camp 1 took the first of our group three and a quarter hours. We were surprised to be quicker in this direction as there is a net increase in height on the way back. In particular, the ascent from Sungai Tabun up on to the ridge seemed to be a very long uphill slog. Even at a moderate pace, however, you should arrive at Camp 1 with plenty of time to bathe in the (very cold) Sungai Ulu Limbang and set up camp before night fall.
Day Four - Camp 1 to Bario
The trip back to Bario is just a long route march. There is very little uphill walking but at least ten kilometres to cover before Pa Ukat where we were aiming to arrive before lunch. If you only concentrate on covering distance then this leg could become quite boring but instead, take time to photograph the mossy forest and listen out for wildlife.
During the four days, different members of our group encountered wild boar (disturbing a whole family at a small stream and, on a second occasion, a large male who crashed away through the undergrowth), red leaf monkeys (difficult to identify high in the canopy, but definitely brown), small squirrels and heard gibbons early in the morning at Camp 1. The trek from Camp 1 to Pa Ukat took us some five hours.
Figure 2 The route to Batu Lawi
List of Waypoints
Description
Co-ordinates
Time
(Timbali)
Ascent
Descent
Elevation
1
Bario
N 03° 44' 28.5"
Tarawe's Lodging House
E 115° 27' 42.9"
Depart 13.00 hrs
Arrive 17.00 hrs
1000 meters
2
Pa Ukat
N 03° 45' 38.6"
Arrive 13.45 hrs
Depart 16.20 hrs
Village at the head of the trail
E 115° 29' 09.4"
Lunch
1020 meters
Depart 14.15 hrs
Arrive 13.10 hrs
3
Dam
Water supply to Pa Ukat
15.15 hrs
Start of jungle walk
4
Temporary Camp "Penaad"
Arrive 16.30 hrs
One of several suitable sites
Overnight Camp
11.30 hrs
on the ascent up the valley
1180 meters
Depart 08.15 hrs
5
Ridge below Tamu Abu Cliffs
View Point before short descent
9.30 hrs
and traverse towards the pass
1625 meters
6
Pass over Tamu Abu Cliffs
Arrive 10.00 hrs
Start of Boulder Field &
10.00 hrs
Mossy Forest
1670 meters
Depart 10.25 hrs
7
Camp 1
N 03° 50' 39.2"
Arrive 12.00 hrs
Depart 08.10 hrs
Permanent shelter next to
E 115° 26' 16.0"
Lunch
Overnight Camp
Sungai Ulu Limbang
1500 meters
Depart 14.30 hrs
Arrive 16.15 hrs
8
Ridge
15.40 - 16.40 hrs
1670 meters
9
Sungai Tabun
Two fords & one log bridge
17.25 - 17.45 hrs
over deep gully
1100 meters
10
Camp 2
N 03° 52' 00.7"
Arrive 18.05 hrs
Depart 13.00 hrs
Permanent shelter at Pa Tabun
E 115° 23' 36.9"
Overnight Camp
Lunch
1300 meters
Depart 08.10 hrs
Arrive 11.45 hrs
11
Saddle
09.10 hrs
11.00 hrs
1700 meters
12
Female Peak
N 03° 52' 07.8"
Arrive 09.40 hrs
E 115° 23' 00.8"
1870 meters
Depart 10.40 hrs
Notes:
1. Departure/arrival times were for the first members of the party. At least 20% extra time should be allowed for each leg.
2. Approximate elevations were measured by Neil Casson using a divers watch.
3. Time constraints and thick tree cover prevented me from taking more GPS fixes. The path between the camps is, however, reasonably straight except for a slight dog leg on the descent from the ridge towards Sungai Tabun. Briggs's book provides a good sketch map.
Planning the Trip.
Planning the Trip
Our itinerary was probably the best that could be achieved with an early morning flight into Bario. The trek from Bario to Camp 1 will take at least seven hours and with flight delays and porters to organise, this would be almost impossible with an arrival in Bario around 10.30 hrs.
Setting off from Bario or Pa Ukat in the early morning, however, the two permanent camps are ideally situated at the end of the first and second day's walk. In fact, the relatively short distance between Camps 1 and 2 opens up the possibility of reaching the summit on day two and spending spare time on the way back fishing or exploring the area around Camp 1.
Our itinerary offered no contingency should the summit be shrouded in cloud or bad weather delay our ascent. A possibility would have been to leave Camp 2 for the summit before dawn to catch the sunrise (and, from experience on Trusmadi, the clearer weather before cloud begins to rise from the valleys). Our late arrival the previous evening, however, resulted that nobody suggested this!
We could have improved our itinerary by making earlier starts in the morning and eating a cold lunch rather than a full cooked meal. This would have left more time for relaxing at the end of each day's walk and, on day two, avoided the potentially dangerous arrival in Camp 2 after dark.
Flights into Bario are notoriously unreliable, a situation that may only marginally improve with the opening of the new runway which is scheduled for mid 1996. It is essential that you plan alternative routes into Bario (fly/walk via Bakalalan, drive/walk via Lawas and Bakalalan or as we were forced to do on an earlier attempt, fly/boat/drive/walk via Marudi, Long Temala, WTK logging concession and the Kubaan Trail!). Make sure that you have one or two days spare at the end of your trip, before your boss/wife/girlfriend begins to panic, to make sure that any delay in reaching Bario does not result in your whole trip being scrubbed. Note that space on the Marudi - Bario charter flights cost M$ 2/kilo (for you and your luggage!) outward when space is at a premium but that the return flight is only some M$ 50 per person.
Whilst it is not necessary to make the trip on a guided tour, since the trail is very clear, protocol probably dictates that you employ one or two porters from Pa Ukat as a minimum. These should be booked in advance - see useful addresses later.
Permits
Permits to visit the Ulu (interior) - are officially required for any non Malaysian travelling above Marudi. If you arrive on a scheduled MAS flight for an organised tour (with Samson Bala for example) this requirement is usually waived. On the other hand, those hoping to make their own arrangements with local porters or who may be forced to take alternative routes into Bario in the event of flight cancellations, are strongly advised to have the correct paperwork.
Permits can be obtained in advance from the Residents Office in either Miri, Marudi or Limbang. The standard procedure is to first visit the police station with two copies of your passport in order to gain clearance for the trip. You will be required to complete a form with your profession, other personal details and the purpose of your trip (ecologists, journalists, members of Greenpeace etc. are automatically excluded at this stage!). The police inspector endorses the form which you then take to the Residents Office where you complete yet another form to enable your permit to be issued.
Climbing the Main Peak
Our group included two experienced climbers who intended to make an attempt on the main peak. They brought with them a considerable amount of technical climbing gear and had allowed an additional twenty four hours at Camp 2 to complete the ascent.
After receeing the peak from the saddle, however, they abandoned their attempt for two main reasons. Firstly, it had rained considerably during the night and the cloud base was then below the main peak. Wet weather or poor visibility during the climb would have posed a major risk. Secondly, whilst they assessed that the climb was within their capabilities, there were no other members of our party who could have offered assistance if they got into difficulties.
Bearing in mind the grade of the climb (see later), unreliable weather and remoteness of the mountain, attempts to climb the main peak should only be made by parties of four to six experienced mountaineers, with the time and resources necessary to adopt a siege approach. This has been the method used on the two previous successful attempts (the first group of British Army climbers in 1986 even had helicopter support for re supply and any casualty evacuation!).
Paul Casson, one of our climbers, had been unable to source any technical information from the two earlier ascents and provided this information from the visitors book in Camp 2 and his own reconnaissance:
The first ascent in 1986 was via the North Ridge after unsuccessful attempts from the saddle (up the Southern Face) and two days trekking round to this easier route.
The second ascent was via the South East Buttress (perhaps the more difficult side but visible from the saddle or secondary summit and better suited to photographs for Australian Geographical magazine!). Starting from the saddle, this group traversed Eastwards up easy slabs before ascending using grooves and corners on the East Face. Midway in the ascent, they made a rising traverse onto the South Ridge which offered clean rock before the angle becomes easier close to the summit.
The ascent comprised five technical rock climbing pitches (presumably fifty meters each) and was indicated in the visitors book as "Grade 20". If this refers to Australian climbing grades, this is equivalent to British "Hard Very Severe/E1 5a/5b". There was no information to suggest whether this referred to the whole climb or just one particularly difficult section. Fixed ropes and jumars were probably used to allow the whole party to make the ascent over the several days they remained at Camp 2.
Paul added that from the aerial photographs, and our MAS sponsored fly past on the way in, there appears to be another feasible route on the South West corner, via an angled ramp that is obscured when the main peak is viewed from the saddle or secondary summit.
Geology
Batu Lawi's exposed rock faces have a distinctive white appearance that led to the mountain being mistakenly identified in the past as being of limestone. It is, however, composed of sandstone as are most of the surrounding mountains (the nearest limestone outcrops are probably in Mulu National Park).
Neil Casson advised that the sandstone of Batu Lawi and the Tamu Abu cliffs, is well cemented and of the Meligan Formation of the Late Oligocene to Early Miocene age (17 - 30 million years old). It is significantly harder than the surrounding rocks and has resisted weathering, resulting in the spectacular appearance of these two features.
Access from the Logging Concessions / Kubaan Trail
Standing on the summit of Batu Lawi, no evidence of logging was visible in any direction. My GPS, however, indicated that a way point taken a few weeks earlier on the logging roads close to the start of the Kubaan trail was less than nine kilometres away. Camp 1 was also a similar distance from a fix taken midway during that walk into Bario.
Whilst the advance of logging towards this beautiful spot is worrying, it opens up the possibility of alternative routes to the mountain. The terrain in the area is undulating but not really mountainous and should pose no serious problems for a well equipped group ready to make camp in the open. (We considered making the trek from the logging concession to Batu Lawi whilst staying at WTK Jelita logging camp, some eleven kilometres from Batu Lawi, the evening before embarking on the Kubaan trail. The idea was rejected, however, because we were not properly equipped, in particular lacking parangs and any materials to make an overnight shelter. Our overland journey had only been necessitated by flight cancellations and we had expected to pick up these essentials in Bario.)
Sunday, December 21, 2008
Bario - G. Murud, by Panaga Natural History Society, Brunei
General
Gunung Murud, 2,423 m (7,946 ft), is the highest mountain in Sarawak. Murud is located in the mountain chain surrounding the Kelabit Highlands in north-east Sarawak. It is very close to the Indonesian border. In fact, on one side of the mountain, the lower end runs into Kalimantan. The mountain has a massive appearance from afar. In some places it has very precipitous sides. Almost vertical rockfaces block direct access from the south.
The conventional route up the mountain is a turn-off from the main Bareo to Ba Kelalan track. This trail starts from the south and curves up the side of the mountain, finally approaching the summit from the north-east. This is essentially the same as Mjoberg's route in 1922.
Starting from Bareo, a journey to the summit of Murud takes 3-4 days. After an initial long walk along the main Bareo-Bakelalan track, the trail goes through a flat area of multiple river crossings and then up the side of Murud onto a long summit ridge. Continuation to Bakelalan takes 1-2 days. Bario-Murud- Bakelalan can be done in 5 days.
The summit ridge is superficially similar to that of other high Borneo mountains such as Trusmadi and Mulu. However, on Murud the mountain flora is particularly impressive. There is a tremendous profusion of orchids, pitcher plants, mosses and other plants. This display is at a peak during the orchid flowering season around September. This period is a good time to climb Murud, although there is risk of considerable rain.
Route description
Bario-Murud-Bakelalan
Description of a tour with organised via Samson Bala Palaba in 1996
September 07th ( Saturday )
0815 hrs Touring Party (TP) converges at Miri Airport.
0900 hrs ETD Miri on MH 3622 on transit in Marudi. ETA New Bareo Airport @ 0945 hrs. Once cleared from the airport, the TP will 'prance around' Bario. Late afternoon, depart for the village of Pa' Umor ( Sampson's village ). A 1.1/4 hour walk on laterite clay path in open country. Accommodation provided by Sampson's family. A stroll in Pa' Umor + a dip in the river. Overnight Pa' Umor
September Q8h ( Sunday )
0750 hrs Everyone should be packed, had breakfast and ready to move. ETD Pa' Umor for the Camp Long Rabpun @ 0800 hrs. Trekking in open country to the village of Pa' Ukat and from there on to another village, Pa' Lungan. This sector will take between 3.1/2 - 4 hrs and the TP will break off for lunch at Pa' Lungan. This is an interesting nature walk. At the right time of the year, there are masses of flowering rhododendrons with red, orange. and white flowers. There are quite a lot of pitcher plants and common orchids. There are also masses of dipteris ferns.
1200 hrs ETA Pa' Lungan & break off for lunch. ETD Pa' Lungan @ 1330 hrs. Jungle trekking from Pa' Lungan is on fairly flat ground and in leech country. It can be very muddy during rainy season. After about 1.1/2 hours the trail then goes steeply over a ridge and drops down to Long Rabpun. Apart from varied flora and fauna and a Rafflesia nest located at point 40 mins to arriving at Long Rabpun, there is nothing interesting to note on this trail.
1730 hrs ETA Long Rabpun. This is the site of a former long house burnt by a patrol of defeated Indonesian army - and is on the bank of the Pa' Dabpur river. There is a shelter - bamboo roof, sawn timber for floorings and semi-walled - mainly use by hunters and travellers, and is surrounded by hundreds of big bamboos. It is quite scenic and beautiful. A cool and refreshing bath in the river will do you a lot of good. Overnight camp Long Rabpun.
NOTE The state of the river at Long Rabpun will determine progress-. There are 6 crossings to make ( after Long Rabpun ) - 2 of which are very tricky & considered 'dangerous' and if the water level is exceptionally high, all attempts to proceed to Camp-1/2 Way-Up on this day should be abandoned. Decision: Proceed on to Pa' Rupai in Kalimantan or wait until the river subsides.
September 09th ( Monday )
0750 hrs Everyone should be packed, had breakfast and ready to move.
ETD Camp Long Rabpun @ 0800 hrs. In ideal conditions, allow 6-7 hours for this section as actual time depend very much on the state of the rivers - See also NOTE. Trekking on flat ground and there will be six river crossings. The river can be forded when the water is waist deep or up to the thighs. The last crossing is at the base of the ridge that leads to Gunung Murud, where it forks to accommodate the base of the ridge. Further on is a strategic and convenient site to rest for lunch. A good camping site when going into Bario from the Bakelalan or vice-versa
1300 hrs Depart for Camp-Half-Way-Up-Murud. Gradual climbing for an hour before it rise steeply to a mere flat level at an altitude of 5,770 feet where the camp site is. It takes about 2 - 3 hours to get here from the east river crossing.
1530 hrs ETA Camp Site. This site is known as Camp-Half-way-Up Murud. It is only a 'basic Boy scout camp site', where tents will have to re~built. It can be uncomfortable when it rains. A small creek provides the source of fresh water, where one can also can clean and splash bath - with difficulty. Definitely not as luxurious' as Camp Long Rabpun Overnight Camp.
September 10th ( Tuesday )
0750 hrs Everyone should be packed, had breakfast and ready to move. ETD Camp Site @ 0800 hrs. It is ascending as soon as you set foot and it will be a strenuous morning. After about an hour's ascend, the trail goes steeply uphill and then emerges out of the tall forest on to the steep open side of Gunung Murud providing a view of the vast Pa' Dapbur plain. One must scramble up steeply through the moss to emerge on the summit ridge. The summit ridge is very broken with vertical sections and the odd drops and is covered with bushes, mossy forest and small tress. The vegetation is thick and often coarse requiring a lot of ducking and scrambling during trekking. As many as 7 varieties of pitcher plants and a lot of mountain orchids can be found on this stretch. The trail rises towards the summit at the S-W end of the mountain.
1330 hrs ETA Summit at 7,946 feet. On a clear day one can see as far as Bareo Airport, Gunung Mulu, the nearby Batu Lawi and the Kalimantan border. If visibility is good, the haunting silhouette of Gunung Kinabalu can be seen in the far distant. The summit is often immersed or surrounded in thick mist and cloud, thus frustrating your visibility; and, it can be quite cold, but on a hot sunny day, a pail of sun block will be very useful indeed !!
1430 hrs ETD Summit for the Church Camp. The trail gradually descends through the open ground towards the North into the Garden of Rocks. This area is beautified by lots of wild mountain orchids, heathers, sparsely distributed stunted trees and rocks of all sizes and shapes. The crossing of a stream (crystal clear water) after 60 minutes marks the end of the open ground and the rest of the trail is under forest canopy and mossy ground until you get to the Church Camp at 6000 feet.
1730 hrs ETA Church Camp. The Church Camp has a cluster of about 80 shacks ( each with it's own fire place ) and there is a common bathing area and a latrine ! In 1989, a Church ( with a seating capacity of 1000 ) was built here. The shacks - with aluminium zinc roof, walled by sawn timbers, were built to accommodate worshippers on pilgrimage here annually. The whole compound is considered ' Holy Ground ' and people are advised not to Smoke and Drink Alcohol; and to keep it the area clean. Overnight Church Camp
September 11 (Wednesday)
0745hrs Everyone should be packed, had breakfast and ready to move. ETD Church Camp @ 0800 hrs. The first 40 minutes is a steep climb to the summit ridge at an altitude of 6,800 feet. This is followed by an hour and a 1/2 ridge walk before the trail descends steeply and converges with a timber track leading towards the main timber track in the direction of Bakelalan. Some amount of time will be spent trekking on timber track before another descend into a stream - Pa' Rabata - where the TP will break for lunch. The trekking here is messy, made miserable and unpleasant by the sight of logged forest and muddy waters. After lunch, there is an hour's ascend, on timber track, to the 'blockade' point before turning right into the jungle. The last 2.1/2 hours is under forest canopy, including the final descend into the vast Kelalan Valley.
17.30hrs ETA Bakelalan. The TP will be accommodated at a private 'lodge': complete with satellite dish, TV and is quite comfy. After a hearty refreshment, it is cleaning up time ! The rest of the afternoon is at leisure. Bakelelan has about about 7 villages, all within walking distance from Buduk Nur' - the centre point. It is a beutiful place.
September 12 (Thursday)
0900 hrs Everyone should still be in bed. Absolutely No rush 11
0930 hrs Breakfast
1000 hrs Check-in at Bakelalan Airport
1050 hrs ETD Bakelalan for Lawas on MH 3604
1120 hrs ETA Lawas. Hire a cab into Lawas town.....
1345 hrs ETD Lawas for Miri
1430 hrs ETA Miri
CLASSIFICATION OF TOUR
Strenuous throughout and it is not for casual tourists. Every day involves almost a full day of trekking ( averaging 8 hours ). There will be hills and mountains to climb. Cost (when arranged with Sampson) are as follows:
02 Pax ( Minimum ) : RM 1,400.00
04 Pax : RM 1,100.00
05 - O9 Pax : RM 900.00
10- 14 Pax : RM 750.00
Cost is Ex-and -Return Miri Airport and is inclusive of airfare, accommodation, all meals ( food ), 2 full-time porters - to carry rations, and with Sampson ( or his personal nominee ) guiding.
Exclude: Fee of personal portage- Going rate now is RM 60.00 per day + 2 days for return trip from Bakelalan cost of alcohol & liquor; and, food/drinks taken outside the package.
Bario-Murud-Bario
A suitable plan for a 6-day return trek to the summit from Bareo is as follows:
Day 1: Bareo to Pa Lungan. Assuming you arrive by air at Bareo before noon, you can reach Pa Lungan the same day.
Day 2: Pa Lungan to Long Rapung
Day 3: Long Rapung to Half-Way-Up-Murud
Day 4: Return scramble to Murud summit from Half-Way-Up-Murud
Day 5: Half-Way-Up-Murud to Long Rapung
Day 6: Long Rapung to Bareo
If there is heavy rain, the rivers may be in flood and difficult to cross. You may have to wait 24 hours for the water to subside. Although you may be able and willing to cross flooded water, your guides may not. A long rope for river crossing would be useful in wet weather.
Pa Lungan to Long Rapun
Allow 5 hours for this section. This is the main track to Ba Kelalan. Once on the track, the way is obvious. The track is flat at first and then goes steeply up over a ridge and drops down to Long Rapung.
Long Rapung is on the bank of the Rapung river. There is a shelter built by Indonesian hunters, surrounded by very large bamboo. The shelter is heavily infested with insects attracted by scraps of animal meat discarded by the hunters. A very smokey fire or a lot of insect repellent is needed to avoid continuous insect bites. A tent sheet may be needed as the roof may be in bad condition. Long Rapung is the site of a former longhouse with 70 people. However, it was attacked by Indonesian forces during the Confrontation War and abandoned. It then became the site of a helicopter landing pad for some years. Near Long Rapung the main trail continues to Long Rupai in Indonesian territory and then onto Ba Kelalan (back in Sarawak). Another trail, now disused, goes around Indonesian territory to reach Ba Kelalan by a longer route.
Long Rapung to Half-Way-Up-Murud
Allow 7-8 hours for this section. The time depends on the state of the rivers.
First, the Rapung river must be crossed. This can be forded easily: the water is only waist deep. However, in rainy conditions it may be necessary to cross over on a makeshift bridge of fallen or cut down bamboo. After about an hour, there is a left turn off the main trail towards Murud. This turn-off is in a small, dark valley and is not obvious. The main trail continues to Kalimantan, as described earlier. The land is quite flat and there are at least four main river crossings. The first one is just after another Indonesian-built hunting shelter at Pat Liuk. The final one is at the base of Murud. The main river crossed is the Dapur (called the Ulu Dapur upstream) which may be crossed three times. Near the base of Murud is an old platform built by the Survey Department. This could be a convenient campsite. There is a steep trek up the side of Murud for 12-2 hours to a campsite at about 1,750 m (5,770 ft). This site is known as Half-Way-Up-Murud. The site is in tall and quite dark mossy forest. There are a lot of orchids. There is a stream about 10 minutes down from the campsite.
Half-Way-Up-Murud to The Summit
It is a long and strenuous day from the campsite up to the summit of Murud and back down again. It is important to take ponchos to guard against heavy rain. Also take a torch to help find your way back in the late afternoon. If you intend to camp at the summit itself, take water for the overnight camp.
This is an established hunting route so the trail is actually marked with parang cuts while the forest is tall. The trail goes steeply uphill and the emerges out of the tall forest onto the steep open side of Murud. One must scramble up steeply through moss to emerge on the summit ridge.
In clear conditions there are good views south from the summit ridge. The disused airstrip at Pa Lungan can be seen as a brown patch in gres jungle on a bearing of 160ø.
The summit ridge is very broken. At some places, vertical sections must be climbed using small tree roots for foot and hand holds. Often there are long vertical drops by the side of the trail, right down the mountain side and down bare rock. The ridge top is quite rocky. Care must be taken not to fall into deep holes, obscured by vegetation. The summit ridge is covered with bushes and small trees. The trees bent and twisted. The vegetation is thick and often coarse. There is a lot of moss and lichens. The trail rises towards the summit at the south-west end of the mountain. The summit itself is a broad flattish area, crater-like in shaE The vegetation has been cleared from part of the summit and several other areas on the summit ridge. These areas make suitable campsites. In dry periods there may be no water. The summit ridge is often immersed in thick mist and cloud and buffeted by driving rain and wind. It can be quite cold. The Author recorded a temperature of 11øC at 6.00 p.m. Minimum night temperatures are commonly 6øC. On a clear night one can see the lights of the oil installations off the Brunei coast. In daytime, the view from the summit is often obscured by cloud. However, on a clear morning, the twin peaks of Batu Lawi can be seen on a bearing of 250ø. If you are returning to the campsite at Half-Way-Up-Murud for the night, it is important to leave the summit by 3.00 p.m. at the latest. If you delay past this time, there is a real risk of being caught out on the summet ridge at dusk.
Retum to Bareo
Starting from Half-Way-Up-Murud, Long Rapung can easily be reached one day. The next day, Bareo can be reached by late afternoon (this includes a lunch stop at Pa Lungan).
General
Guides can be obtained from Pa Lungan longhouse, 5-6 hours walk from Bareo. To reach Pa Lungan, follow the main path east out of Bares The path reaches Pa Ukat longhouse in one hour. It passes around the right side of the longhouse and then north to Pa Lungan. There is a for about 30 minutes beyond Pa Ukat, in a pineapple patch: take the right fork (if in doubt, always take the main path).
About 30 minutes from Pa Lungan, an abandoned airstrip is reached. The whole of Murud mountain can be seen clearly from here. The trail continues along the left side of the airstrip.
The whole trail to Pa Lungan from Bareo to Pa Lungan is an interesting nature walk. At the right time of year, there are masses of flowering rhododendrons with red, orange and white flowers. There are quite a lot of pitcher plants (the pitchers of Nepenthes stenophylla are particularly striking) and common orchids. There are masses of lush Dipteris ferns. The terrain is quite open. Some of it is under cultivation particularly near the two longhouses, and much of it was cultivated some time in the past. Because of the altitude, the air is cool and not humid like the lowlands.
Pa Lungan is a 28 'door' longhouse, with up to 300 people. Guides for Murud can be obtained from the Ketua Kampung. Guides should be requested in advance-by writing to the Ketua
Kampung (preferably in Malay). If you turn up without warning, guides may not be immediately available and a wait of days may be necessary.
Gunung Murud is not suitable for the casual tourist. It is essential to come properly equipped. Provided you do not actually camp on the summit, you can sleep on a wooden platform under a plastic or nylon-tent sheet. You must bring the tent sheet with you and bring ponchos for the guides.
The summit of Murud is likely to be cold, windy and wet. An enclosed tent is highly desirable. Do not forget tents for your guides.
Expect to pay $20 per day for each guide. For 5 days from Pa Lungan, a return trip up Murud will cost $200 for two guides. The guides will also appreciate instant coffee and sugar-both locally expensive commodities .
Montane forests
Montane forests begin to be recognisable around 800 metres above sea level. There is no sudden transformation from the mixed dipterocarp forest but a gradual change in character. The appearance of tree ferns amongst the high stature trees is the first indication of the transition. As the altitude increases, the climate becomes cooler, wetter and tree height and diametre decrease. At the higher altitudes, trees are merely 1.5 metres tall.
The forest has a unique atmosphere created by the drift of clouds and the profusion of hanging mosses, liverworts, orchids, and ferns that cover the trunks and branches of the trees. At higher elevations, even the ground is covered with epiphytes, plants that normally grow high in the trees at lower elevations.
Species from families associated with the temperate regions of the world are common, e.g., Quercus and Lithocarpus from the oak family, Rhododendrum and Vaccinium from the heath family.
Many plants have small thick leaves which decompose slowly when dead, especially at these lower temperatures. As a result, the organic litter accumulates, releasing little of its nutrients, and plant growth is slow. Pitcher plants are well adapted to these conditions and abound on the forest floor, on shrubs, or even in the crown of trees.
The varied mountain terrain
A trek or climb to the summit of a jungle mountain takes one through varied terrain. The route often starts on cultivated land, which is easy to cross. It then goes through secondary jungle or belukar. This is land that was cleared and perhaps cultivated in the past and then abandoned. Moving through belukar can be very unpleasant: it fits most people's conception of jungle as a 'green hell'. The vegetation is short, but very dense and hot. Visibility is often zero except along a path. Belukar gives way to primary jungle. This is undisturbed jungle, essentially unchanged for millions of years, and it is a very different world. The trees are very large and tall shooting straight up to form a dense canopy of interlocking branches over 50 m above the ground. The canopy screens out most sunlight, so the ground is very gloomy with speckles of bright light that come down through small gaps in the foliage. The trees are often supported by huge buttresses of roots that snake out along the ground. This terrain is easy to walk through: there is little green vegetation between the trees. However visibility is only about 100 metres, there are no landmarks and it looks the same in al directions. It is very humid with a very constant temperature and the absence of any breeze can make one hot and uncomfortable.
Up mountain ridges, the trees become shorter. There are occasional views out over the forest below. Pine trees may appear, with their characteristic cones. At around 1,200 m, the trees change to a forest: on the ground one finds huge acorn nuts that have fallen from the canopy above.
As altitude is gained, the temperature falls, the humidity drops, and light breezes on ridges make the terrain far more comfortable than the lowland forest.
At about 1,000 m - though this may not happen until twice this height-one enters mossy forest. Clumps of moss hang from the branches of stunted trees, cover their trunks and sit foot-deep around their base. The ground is everywhere covered with patches of bright moss and lichens-green, red, yellow and every shade of brown. Sometimes the moss is so dense that you can find yourself walking through tunnels of the stuff.
Many pitcher plants are found in mossy forests. Clumps of squat ground pitchers sit nestled on beds of moss, and elongated aerial pitch hang from vines high up. At higher altitudes, above 2,000 m, the vegetation becomes thick shrub a few metres high. Its leaves are small, thick and tough to resist solar radiation and prevent loss of water. They contrast with the large thin leaves of the lowlands. The trees are now very short and stunted. Rhododendrons, with their red, orange, yellow or white flowers are now very prominent. At lower altitudes, the flowers are high up in the tree-tops. Now they are at head height. Temperatures now vary enormously during the day. On the summits of at about 2,600 m , night temperatures usually plunge below 5oC. Daytime rain are cold and unbearable without a rain cape.
Mossy forest is swept by low clouds and immersed in mist. It is wet and can feel very cold. Mossy forest is an ideal place for epiphytes that grow on other plants and tree trunks above the ground. Their roots are in the air, not the earth and absorb moisture from mist and rain. Mossy forest contains many epiphytic orchids that grow on tree branches and clefts in tree trunks. One of the most beautiful displays of orchids can indeed be seen on Gunung Murud, during the flowering season in September.
Gunung Murud, 2,423 m (7,946 ft), is the highest mountain in Sarawak. Murud is located in the mountain chain surrounding the Kelabit Highlands in north-east Sarawak. It is very close to the Indonesian border. In fact, on one side of the mountain, the lower end runs into Kalimantan. The mountain has a massive appearance from afar. In some places it has very precipitous sides. Almost vertical rockfaces block direct access from the south.
The conventional route up the mountain is a turn-off from the main Bareo to Ba Kelalan track. This trail starts from the south and curves up the side of the mountain, finally approaching the summit from the north-east. This is essentially the same as Mjoberg's route in 1922.
Starting from Bareo, a journey to the summit of Murud takes 3-4 days. After an initial long walk along the main Bareo-Bakelalan track, the trail goes through a flat area of multiple river crossings and then up the side of Murud onto a long summit ridge. Continuation to Bakelalan takes 1-2 days. Bario-Murud- Bakelalan can be done in 5 days.
The summit ridge is superficially similar to that of other high Borneo mountains such as Trusmadi and Mulu. However, on Murud the mountain flora is particularly impressive. There is a tremendous profusion of orchids, pitcher plants, mosses and other plants. This display is at a peak during the orchid flowering season around September. This period is a good time to climb Murud, although there is risk of considerable rain.
Route description
Bario-Murud-Bakelalan
Description of a tour with organised via Samson Bala Palaba in 1996
September 07th ( Saturday )
0815 hrs Touring Party (TP) converges at Miri Airport.
0900 hrs ETD Miri on MH 3622 on transit in Marudi. ETA New Bareo Airport @ 0945 hrs. Once cleared from the airport, the TP will 'prance around' Bario. Late afternoon, depart for the village of Pa' Umor ( Sampson's village ). A 1.1/4 hour walk on laterite clay path in open country. Accommodation provided by Sampson's family. A stroll in Pa' Umor + a dip in the river. Overnight Pa' Umor
September Q8h ( Sunday )
0750 hrs Everyone should be packed, had breakfast and ready to move. ETD Pa' Umor for the Camp Long Rabpun @ 0800 hrs. Trekking in open country to the village of Pa' Ukat and from there on to another village, Pa' Lungan. This sector will take between 3.1/2 - 4 hrs and the TP will break off for lunch at Pa' Lungan. This is an interesting nature walk. At the right time of the year, there are masses of flowering rhododendrons with red, orange. and white flowers. There are quite a lot of pitcher plants and common orchids. There are also masses of dipteris ferns.
1200 hrs ETA Pa' Lungan & break off for lunch. ETD Pa' Lungan @ 1330 hrs. Jungle trekking from Pa' Lungan is on fairly flat ground and in leech country. It can be very muddy during rainy season. After about 1.1/2 hours the trail then goes steeply over a ridge and drops down to Long Rabpun. Apart from varied flora and fauna and a Rafflesia nest located at point 40 mins to arriving at Long Rabpun, there is nothing interesting to note on this trail.
1730 hrs ETA Long Rabpun. This is the site of a former long house burnt by a patrol of defeated Indonesian army - and is on the bank of the Pa' Dabpur river. There is a shelter - bamboo roof, sawn timber for floorings and semi-walled - mainly use by hunters and travellers, and is surrounded by hundreds of big bamboos. It is quite scenic and beautiful. A cool and refreshing bath in the river will do you a lot of good. Overnight camp Long Rabpun.
NOTE The state of the river at Long Rabpun will determine progress-. There are 6 crossings to make ( after Long Rabpun ) - 2 of which are very tricky & considered 'dangerous' and if the water level is exceptionally high, all attempts to proceed to Camp-1/2 Way-Up on this day should be abandoned. Decision: Proceed on to Pa' Rupai in Kalimantan or wait until the river subsides.
September 09th ( Monday )
0750 hrs Everyone should be packed, had breakfast and ready to move.
ETD Camp Long Rabpun @ 0800 hrs. In ideal conditions, allow 6-7 hours for this section as actual time depend very much on the state of the rivers - See also NOTE. Trekking on flat ground and there will be six river crossings. The river can be forded when the water is waist deep or up to the thighs. The last crossing is at the base of the ridge that leads to Gunung Murud, where it forks to accommodate the base of the ridge. Further on is a strategic and convenient site to rest for lunch. A good camping site when going into Bario from the Bakelalan or vice-versa
1300 hrs Depart for Camp-Half-Way-Up-Murud. Gradual climbing for an hour before it rise steeply to a mere flat level at an altitude of 5,770 feet where the camp site is. It takes about 2 - 3 hours to get here from the east river crossing.
1530 hrs ETA Camp Site. This site is known as Camp-Half-way-Up Murud. It is only a 'basic Boy scout camp site', where tents will have to re~built. It can be uncomfortable when it rains. A small creek provides the source of fresh water, where one can also can clean and splash bath - with difficulty. Definitely not as luxurious' as Camp Long Rabpun Overnight Camp.
September 10th ( Tuesday )
0750 hrs Everyone should be packed, had breakfast and ready to move. ETD Camp Site @ 0800 hrs. It is ascending as soon as you set foot and it will be a strenuous morning. After about an hour's ascend, the trail goes steeply uphill and then emerges out of the tall forest on to the steep open side of Gunung Murud providing a view of the vast Pa' Dapbur plain. One must scramble up steeply through the moss to emerge on the summit ridge. The summit ridge is very broken with vertical sections and the odd drops and is covered with bushes, mossy forest and small tress. The vegetation is thick and often coarse requiring a lot of ducking and scrambling during trekking. As many as 7 varieties of pitcher plants and a lot of mountain orchids can be found on this stretch. The trail rises towards the summit at the S-W end of the mountain.
1330 hrs ETA Summit at 7,946 feet. On a clear day one can see as far as Bareo Airport, Gunung Mulu, the nearby Batu Lawi and the Kalimantan border. If visibility is good, the haunting silhouette of Gunung Kinabalu can be seen in the far distant. The summit is often immersed or surrounded in thick mist and cloud, thus frustrating your visibility; and, it can be quite cold, but on a hot sunny day, a pail of sun block will be very useful indeed !!
1430 hrs ETD Summit for the Church Camp. The trail gradually descends through the open ground towards the North into the Garden of Rocks. This area is beautified by lots of wild mountain orchids, heathers, sparsely distributed stunted trees and rocks of all sizes and shapes. The crossing of a stream (crystal clear water) after 60 minutes marks the end of the open ground and the rest of the trail is under forest canopy and mossy ground until you get to the Church Camp at 6000 feet.
1730 hrs ETA Church Camp. The Church Camp has a cluster of about 80 shacks ( each with it's own fire place ) and there is a common bathing area and a latrine ! In 1989, a Church ( with a seating capacity of 1000 ) was built here. The shacks - with aluminium zinc roof, walled by sawn timbers, were built to accommodate worshippers on pilgrimage here annually. The whole compound is considered ' Holy Ground ' and people are advised not to Smoke and Drink Alcohol; and to keep it the area clean. Overnight Church Camp
September 11 (Wednesday)
0745hrs Everyone should be packed, had breakfast and ready to move. ETD Church Camp @ 0800 hrs. The first 40 minutes is a steep climb to the summit ridge at an altitude of 6,800 feet. This is followed by an hour and a 1/2 ridge walk before the trail descends steeply and converges with a timber track leading towards the main timber track in the direction of Bakelalan. Some amount of time will be spent trekking on timber track before another descend into a stream - Pa' Rabata - where the TP will break for lunch. The trekking here is messy, made miserable and unpleasant by the sight of logged forest and muddy waters. After lunch, there is an hour's ascend, on timber track, to the 'blockade' point before turning right into the jungle. The last 2.1/2 hours is under forest canopy, including the final descend into the vast Kelalan Valley.
17.30hrs ETA Bakelalan. The TP will be accommodated at a private 'lodge': complete with satellite dish, TV and is quite comfy. After a hearty refreshment, it is cleaning up time ! The rest of the afternoon is at leisure. Bakelelan has about about 7 villages, all within walking distance from Buduk Nur' - the centre point. It is a beutiful place.
September 12 (Thursday)
0900 hrs Everyone should still be in bed. Absolutely No rush 11
0930 hrs Breakfast
1000 hrs Check-in at Bakelalan Airport
1050 hrs ETD Bakelalan for Lawas on MH 3604
1120 hrs ETA Lawas. Hire a cab into Lawas town.....
1345 hrs ETD Lawas for Miri
1430 hrs ETA Miri
CLASSIFICATION OF TOUR
Strenuous throughout and it is not for casual tourists. Every day involves almost a full day of trekking ( averaging 8 hours ). There will be hills and mountains to climb. Cost (when arranged with Sampson) are as follows:
02 Pax ( Minimum ) : RM 1,400.00
04 Pax : RM 1,100.00
05 - O9 Pax : RM 900.00
10- 14 Pax : RM 750.00
Cost is Ex-and -Return Miri Airport and is inclusive of airfare, accommodation, all meals ( food ), 2 full-time porters - to carry rations, and with Sampson ( or his personal nominee ) guiding.
Exclude: Fee of personal portage- Going rate now is RM 60.00 per day + 2 days for return trip from Bakelalan cost of alcohol & liquor; and, food/drinks taken outside the package.
Bario-Murud-Bario
A suitable plan for a 6-day return trek to the summit from Bareo is as follows:
Day 1: Bareo to Pa Lungan. Assuming you arrive by air at Bareo before noon, you can reach Pa Lungan the same day.
Day 2: Pa Lungan to Long Rapung
Day 3: Long Rapung to Half-Way-Up-Murud
Day 4: Return scramble to Murud summit from Half-Way-Up-Murud
Day 5: Half-Way-Up-Murud to Long Rapung
Day 6: Long Rapung to Bareo
If there is heavy rain, the rivers may be in flood and difficult to cross. You may have to wait 24 hours for the water to subside. Although you may be able and willing to cross flooded water, your guides may not. A long rope for river crossing would be useful in wet weather.
Pa Lungan to Long Rapun
Allow 5 hours for this section. This is the main track to Ba Kelalan. Once on the track, the way is obvious. The track is flat at first and then goes steeply up over a ridge and drops down to Long Rapung.
Long Rapung is on the bank of the Rapung river. There is a shelter built by Indonesian hunters, surrounded by very large bamboo. The shelter is heavily infested with insects attracted by scraps of animal meat discarded by the hunters. A very smokey fire or a lot of insect repellent is needed to avoid continuous insect bites. A tent sheet may be needed as the roof may be in bad condition. Long Rapung is the site of a former longhouse with 70 people. However, it was attacked by Indonesian forces during the Confrontation War and abandoned. It then became the site of a helicopter landing pad for some years. Near Long Rapung the main trail continues to Long Rupai in Indonesian territory and then onto Ba Kelalan (back in Sarawak). Another trail, now disused, goes around Indonesian territory to reach Ba Kelalan by a longer route.
Long Rapung to Half-Way-Up-Murud
Allow 7-8 hours for this section. The time depends on the state of the rivers.
First, the Rapung river must be crossed. This can be forded easily: the water is only waist deep. However, in rainy conditions it may be necessary to cross over on a makeshift bridge of fallen or cut down bamboo. After about an hour, there is a left turn off the main trail towards Murud. This turn-off is in a small, dark valley and is not obvious. The main trail continues to Kalimantan, as described earlier. The land is quite flat and there are at least four main river crossings. The first one is just after another Indonesian-built hunting shelter at Pat Liuk. The final one is at the base of Murud. The main river crossed is the Dapur (called the Ulu Dapur upstream) which may be crossed three times. Near the base of Murud is an old platform built by the Survey Department. This could be a convenient campsite. There is a steep trek up the side of Murud for 12-2 hours to a campsite at about 1,750 m (5,770 ft). This site is known as Half-Way-Up-Murud. The site is in tall and quite dark mossy forest. There are a lot of orchids. There is a stream about 10 minutes down from the campsite.
Half-Way-Up-Murud to The Summit
It is a long and strenuous day from the campsite up to the summit of Murud and back down again. It is important to take ponchos to guard against heavy rain. Also take a torch to help find your way back in the late afternoon. If you intend to camp at the summit itself, take water for the overnight camp.
This is an established hunting route so the trail is actually marked with parang cuts while the forest is tall. The trail goes steeply uphill and the emerges out of the tall forest onto the steep open side of Murud. One must scramble up steeply through moss to emerge on the summit ridge.
In clear conditions there are good views south from the summit ridge. The disused airstrip at Pa Lungan can be seen as a brown patch in gres jungle on a bearing of 160ø.
The summit ridge is very broken. At some places, vertical sections must be climbed using small tree roots for foot and hand holds. Often there are long vertical drops by the side of the trail, right down the mountain side and down bare rock. The ridge top is quite rocky. Care must be taken not to fall into deep holes, obscured by vegetation. The summit ridge is covered with bushes and small trees. The trees bent and twisted. The vegetation is thick and often coarse. There is a lot of moss and lichens. The trail rises towards the summit at the south-west end of the mountain. The summit itself is a broad flattish area, crater-like in shaE The vegetation has been cleared from part of the summit and several other areas on the summit ridge. These areas make suitable campsites. In dry periods there may be no water. The summit ridge is often immersed in thick mist and cloud and buffeted by driving rain and wind. It can be quite cold. The Author recorded a temperature of 11øC at 6.00 p.m. Minimum night temperatures are commonly 6øC. On a clear night one can see the lights of the oil installations off the Brunei coast. In daytime, the view from the summit is often obscured by cloud. However, on a clear morning, the twin peaks of Batu Lawi can be seen on a bearing of 250ø. If you are returning to the campsite at Half-Way-Up-Murud for the night, it is important to leave the summit by 3.00 p.m. at the latest. If you delay past this time, there is a real risk of being caught out on the summet ridge at dusk.
Retum to Bareo
Starting from Half-Way-Up-Murud, Long Rapung can easily be reached one day. The next day, Bareo can be reached by late afternoon (this includes a lunch stop at Pa Lungan).
General
Guides can be obtained from Pa Lungan longhouse, 5-6 hours walk from Bareo. To reach Pa Lungan, follow the main path east out of Bares The path reaches Pa Ukat longhouse in one hour. It passes around the right side of the longhouse and then north to Pa Lungan. There is a for about 30 minutes beyond Pa Ukat, in a pineapple patch: take the right fork (if in doubt, always take the main path).
About 30 minutes from Pa Lungan, an abandoned airstrip is reached. The whole of Murud mountain can be seen clearly from here. The trail continues along the left side of the airstrip.
The whole trail to Pa Lungan from Bareo to Pa Lungan is an interesting nature walk. At the right time of year, there are masses of flowering rhododendrons with red, orange and white flowers. There are quite a lot of pitcher plants (the pitchers of Nepenthes stenophylla are particularly striking) and common orchids. There are masses of lush Dipteris ferns. The terrain is quite open. Some of it is under cultivation particularly near the two longhouses, and much of it was cultivated some time in the past. Because of the altitude, the air is cool and not humid like the lowlands.
Pa Lungan is a 28 'door' longhouse, with up to 300 people. Guides for Murud can be obtained from the Ketua Kampung. Guides should be requested in advance-by writing to the Ketua
Kampung (preferably in Malay). If you turn up without warning, guides may not be immediately available and a wait of days may be necessary.
Gunung Murud is not suitable for the casual tourist. It is essential to come properly equipped. Provided you do not actually camp on the summit, you can sleep on a wooden platform under a plastic or nylon-tent sheet. You must bring the tent sheet with you and bring ponchos for the guides.
The summit of Murud is likely to be cold, windy and wet. An enclosed tent is highly desirable. Do not forget tents for your guides.
Expect to pay $20 per day for each guide. For 5 days from Pa Lungan, a return trip up Murud will cost $200 for two guides. The guides will also appreciate instant coffee and sugar-both locally expensive commodities .
Montane forests
Montane forests begin to be recognisable around 800 metres above sea level. There is no sudden transformation from the mixed dipterocarp forest but a gradual change in character. The appearance of tree ferns amongst the high stature trees is the first indication of the transition. As the altitude increases, the climate becomes cooler, wetter and tree height and diametre decrease. At the higher altitudes, trees are merely 1.5 metres tall.
The forest has a unique atmosphere created by the drift of clouds and the profusion of hanging mosses, liverworts, orchids, and ferns that cover the trunks and branches of the trees. At higher elevations, even the ground is covered with epiphytes, plants that normally grow high in the trees at lower elevations.
Species from families associated with the temperate regions of the world are common, e.g., Quercus and Lithocarpus from the oak family, Rhododendrum and Vaccinium from the heath family.
Many plants have small thick leaves which decompose slowly when dead, especially at these lower temperatures. As a result, the organic litter accumulates, releasing little of its nutrients, and plant growth is slow. Pitcher plants are well adapted to these conditions and abound on the forest floor, on shrubs, or even in the crown of trees.
The varied mountain terrain
A trek or climb to the summit of a jungle mountain takes one through varied terrain. The route often starts on cultivated land, which is easy to cross. It then goes through secondary jungle or belukar. This is land that was cleared and perhaps cultivated in the past and then abandoned. Moving through belukar can be very unpleasant: it fits most people's conception of jungle as a 'green hell'. The vegetation is short, but very dense and hot. Visibility is often zero except along a path. Belukar gives way to primary jungle. This is undisturbed jungle, essentially unchanged for millions of years, and it is a very different world. The trees are very large and tall shooting straight up to form a dense canopy of interlocking branches over 50 m above the ground. The canopy screens out most sunlight, so the ground is very gloomy with speckles of bright light that come down through small gaps in the foliage. The trees are often supported by huge buttresses of roots that snake out along the ground. This terrain is easy to walk through: there is little green vegetation between the trees. However visibility is only about 100 metres, there are no landmarks and it looks the same in al directions. It is very humid with a very constant temperature and the absence of any breeze can make one hot and uncomfortable.
Up mountain ridges, the trees become shorter. There are occasional views out over the forest below. Pine trees may appear, with their characteristic cones. At around 1,200 m, the trees change to a forest: on the ground one finds huge acorn nuts that have fallen from the canopy above.
As altitude is gained, the temperature falls, the humidity drops, and light breezes on ridges make the terrain far more comfortable than the lowland forest.
At about 1,000 m - though this may not happen until twice this height-one enters mossy forest. Clumps of moss hang from the branches of stunted trees, cover their trunks and sit foot-deep around their base. The ground is everywhere covered with patches of bright moss and lichens-green, red, yellow and every shade of brown. Sometimes the moss is so dense that you can find yourself walking through tunnels of the stuff.
Many pitcher plants are found in mossy forests. Clumps of squat ground pitchers sit nestled on beds of moss, and elongated aerial pitch hang from vines high up. At higher altitudes, above 2,000 m, the vegetation becomes thick shrub a few metres high. Its leaves are small, thick and tough to resist solar radiation and prevent loss of water. They contrast with the large thin leaves of the lowlands. The trees are now very short and stunted. Rhododendrons, with their red, orange, yellow or white flowers are now very prominent. At lower altitudes, the flowers are high up in the tree-tops. Now they are at head height. Temperatures now vary enormously during the day. On the summits of at about 2,600 m , night temperatures usually plunge below 5oC. Daytime rain are cold and unbearable without a rain cape.
Mossy forest is swept by low clouds and immersed in mist. It is wet and can feel very cold. Mossy forest is an ideal place for epiphytes that grow on other plants and tree trunks above the ground. Their roots are in the air, not the earth and absorb moisture from mist and rain. Mossy forest contains many epiphytic orchids that grow on tree branches and clefts in tree trunks. One of the most beautiful displays of orchids can indeed be seen on Gunung Murud, during the flowering season in September.
Kubaan - Bario Trail
The Bario Plateau lies to the south east of Brunei in Sarawak, just Northwest of the border with Indonesian Kalimantan. It is an isolated area surrounded on three sides by mountain ranges which rise to more than six thousand feet. On the Southern side, rivers drain from the plateau through deep gorges and eventually form the Baram (it is at least three day's ridge walk south from Bario to the first navigable point). Whilst there is now a scheduled air service between Bario and Miri, the inhabitants of the plateau relied for centuries on a handful of overland trading routes. One of these routes passes westward from Bario over the Tamu Abu mountain range and on to Long Lelang via the Punan settlement at Pa Tik. The walk to Long Lelang would take around five days after which it would be possible to proceed by small boat along a river system which eventually joins the Baram.
A logging road now cuts this route between Pa Tik and Bario at a point where the trail follows the Sungai Kubaan valley. This opens up the possibility of a relatively easy overland route to Bario with one days driving on logging roads from Limbang followed by a walk of some 22 km. The walk can just be completed in one day although there are several suitable camping spots along the way (if you don't mind leeches!).
This route description draws partly on a number of driving trips made in 1993/94 and on an unsuccessful attempt to climb Batu Lawi in October 1995 when bad weather caused flight cancellations and forced us to find an alternative route into Bario.
Day One - Logging roads in Ulu Limbang
From Limbang drive to the WTK base camp at way point 7. This should take approximately six hours following the pace notes attached. The route follows the main logging road which links the WTK timber concession and the log ponds on the Limbang river at Medamit. It is a good quality sand road which is regularly maintained to allow passage of heavy logging trucks.
Note that if you have set off straight from Brunei after work and do not wish to spend the night in Limbang, a possible camp site (no water!) is located approximately 62 km after the check point on the way into the logging concession at N 04° 03' 49.8" E 115° 07' 15.3" (i.e. some 2.5 km before way point 4). There is a large flat area on the right hand side of the road which offers fantastic views over Mulu and Api to the west. The site is high on a hill side and the mist rising from the valley below in early morning is very beautiful.
Just before WTK camp there is a left hand turning with a fork in the road about one hundred meters later. Take the right hand fork which leads on to WTK Jelita camp. The scenery now becomes very spectacular as the road climbs over Bukit Batu Iran (way point 9) at over five thousand feet. At the highest points the primary rain forest can be seen to have given way to smaller stunted trees and ferns. Some exposed sandstone has the distinctive bleached white appearance which is characteristic of Batu Lawi.
Jelita camp (way point 10) is reached after about one hour's drive from WTK base camp. If it is becoming late, it is possible to stay in one of the huts on the camp to save making camp. Take care, however, not to make our mistake of accepting an invitation from one of the loggers without first paying your respects to the camp boss.
As an alternative to staying in the logging huts, suitable camp sites can be found either about forty minutes out of Jelita where the road crosses the wide Sungai Kubaan (way point 12) or, if you have even more time you could consider walking and making camp along the Kubaan trail. The first good spot is some 20 minutes walk along the trail where there are some old hunting huts next to the river. It is uncertain as to whether these huts can be opened or even whether their floors could still support any weight. Nevertheless it would be possible to sleep sheltered underneath them (they are some two meters off the ground) thus avoiding the need to carry tents.
In making this journey in October 1995 we did not set off from Limbang but from Marudi where we had become stranded following cancellation of all flights to Bario. We then needed to travel by express boat upriver to Long Temala (two hours thirty minutes), hire two Toyota pickups and drive eastward, passing close to Long Atip, Mulu and Long Seridan before emerging on the logging roads south of Limbang about half way to WTK camp (close to way point 4). This is much longer than driving from Limbang (we took express boats at 9.00 am but did not reach Jelita until after dark) and would only be interesting if your journey originated from Miri. Further details of the logging roads in the area south of Mulu can be found in the pace notes for the journey from Limbang to Mulu National Park.
Day Two - The Kubaan Trail
The logging road cuts the trail at way point 13, on the brow of a hill a few hundred meters beyond the bridge over Sungai Kubaan. In October 1995, this point was quite distinct with a small shelter having been built by Punans gathering special hard timber used for making long house foundation poles. Note that the air map is incorrect at this point as it places the trail some 800 meters north of Sungai Kubaan whereas comparison of way points 12 and 13 show it to be clearly south of the river.
The trail on the right (western) side of the road leads to the (abandoned) long house at Kubaan and the Punan settlement at Pa Tik. Judging from the distance shown on the map and the type of terrain, Pa Tik should be able to be reached after about half a days walk, offering an alternative to Bario for those who wanted to make a shorter trip.
The path to Bario begins on the left (eastern) side of the road. After about twenty meters there is a sharp right turn as the trail leaves the area cleared by the Punan hunters. We started walking at 8.15 am.
After twenty minutes (8.35 am) the trail emerges into a small clearing next to the river (probably still Sungai Kubaan) where two hunting shelters have been built. Do not take the path to the river but continue past the huts with the river some ten meters away on your left hand side. The Kubaan trail continues at the other side of the clearing.
A further twenty minutes later (8.55 am) the path forks at a small stream which must be a tributary to Sungai Kubaan. Take the left (more distinct) path and ford the stream. Although not very visible before you cross, the path on the other side is wide and obvious.
There is another stream crossing twenty minutes later (9.15 am), this time using a large fallen tree. The trail in this area seemed to be generally following a north easterly direction, contrary to the air map which shows a steady south easterly path. This suggests that the distance walked is considerably longer than the straight line between way points 13 and 16 (which are some 16.5 km apart).
Although the path is wide and easy as it covers level ground, there are several sections where it follows the sides of steep river valleys. Here, although there is little danger of falling any distance, it can be slippery and difficult to find firm footholds.
Eventually, after a further thirty five minutes (9.50 am) the trail descends to Sungai Kubaan. It is now necessary to ford the river from the right hand to left hand banks (facing upstream). The river is some twenty meters wide and waist deep in places, in October 1995, a steel cable had been fixed across the river to allow it to be crossed safely. After heavy rain the river level will rise considerably (as could be seen from the surrounding banks, trees and boulders) - crossing would then be very difficult.
The trail continues on the other side of the river, slowly climbing up the step valley.
One hour after the river crossing (10.50 am) a log bridge crosses a deep stream gully. As an alternative to crossing the slippery log, it is possible to go to the left and scramble up and down each bank.
Fifteen minutes later (11.05 am) it is necessary to ford another wide river (way point 14). This place may be Long Semirang - an old settlement which is marked on a number of maps but is no longer permanently inhabited. The location of this way point on the air map, and the fact that the river is carrying significantly less water than at the earlier crossing, suggests that this is not Sungai Kubaan but it's main tributary, which the trail now follows all the way to the watershed at the edge of the plateau. On the other side of the river there is a cross-roads with paths to the left and right leading to small huts or hunting shelters. Continue straight ahead.
After forty five minutes (11.50 am) it is necessary to scramble in and out of a deep gully where a log bridge had collapsed. We needed to push through thick rattan, indicating that whilst some sections of the trail are still used by hunters (we saw footprints in several places) the whole length of the path is seldom used. It is only the fact that the trail is in the shade of the forest canopy that prevents it from being slowly overgrown.
The trail descends back towards the river and after ten minutes (12.00 pm) there is a small clearing next to the river with a very old hunting shelter. There are several trails leaving this point and this gave us our greatest uncertainty during the trip.
Standing in the clearing with the river in front of you (flowing right to left) and the shelter on your left, there is one path that continues to your right up the river bank. This leads, after about fifty meters, to a clearing containing a number of old Punan shelters - it is not the correct path. To find the continuation of the trail, cross the river and follow the opposite bank upstream for some twenty meters. Once you reach it the path is wide and distinct although it is not readily visible from the river (do not make the mistake of continuing on the small track which goes steeply uphill directly opposite the hunting shelter).
We stopped here for lunch, sitting on boulders in the water to protect ourselves from the leeches which infested the area. From our position in the river (which was at that time only about thirty centimetres deep) we could see debris in tree branches at least one meter above us. After heavy rainfall it may be necessary to wait here for the water level to fall.
After the lunch stop, the trail swings more definitely south east and begins to climb up to the plateau. The three hour climb (the first of our group arrived on the watershed at around 3.45 pm) is gradual at first becoming steeper in the final sections.
The trail follows the stream to it's source, crossing it at least ten times on the way. During our trip the water level was fairly low and the stream could easily be forded. In many places, however, there were rough log bridges above the stream indicating that the water levels are frequently much higher.
The trail under the forest canopy is very distinct although in several places fallen trees block the path and it is necessary to make detours to search for the correct continuation. The lack of well worn routes around these obstacles is further evidence that the trail is seldom used today.
At two points, approximately half way to the watershed, the trail follows the bed of the stream for short distances. The first begins just before a sharp left hand bend in the stream where there are deep pools and a steep left hand bank. The path, which must once have followed close to the bank, has been washed away but resumes straight ahead on the opposite bank, on the other side of a fallen tree, and then follows the right hand bank upstream.
The second is a longer stretch of more than a hundred meters, higher up the escarpment, where the stream is much smaller. Here the trail follows the bed of the stream before emerging on the right hand bank. Along both of these sections, however, the sides of the stream are steep and it would be difficult to loose the correct trail. Furthermore the continuation of the path a few meters away from the bank is very distinct - we were confident that we were on the correct trail without the assistance of our guide who was by then at least one hour behind us (we left toilet paper to mark our route and prevent the group from becoming split up).
In the upper section of the trail there are several beautiful waterfalls and the tall trees of the primary rain forest begin to give way stunted, moss covered, species and giant ferns. The altitude at the pass over the Tamu Abu range is approximately 5,500 feet (tree cover prevented us from obtaining a proper fix). At this height, whilst the rain forest does begin to change, there is little evidence of the true "mossy forest" which can be found on the upper slopes of Mulu (7,800 feet), Trusmadi (8,700 feet) or even a few kilometres away at the other pass through the Tamu Abu cliffs on the way to Batu Lawi.
The last hundred meters to the pass follows a dry stream bed. There was no view point at the top although it would be possible to climb higher on either side of the trail (we didn't feel like it!). In any event we missed the "shattering views out over the whole interior" promised by Harrisson in his book (see later).
The first part of the descent into Bario follows the valley of a small river and is very similar to the climb on the other side of the pass, although perhaps with more mossy forest. The trail remains steep and slippery with many tree root for tired legs to trip over. This lasts for some forty five minutes (4.30 pm) until the trail begins to widen and the log bridges over small streams are constructed from sawn timber - evidence that civilisation is approaching.
At this point the trail passes a small dam in the river which provides a reservoir for the drinking water supply to the surrounding villages. The water pipe follows close to the path for the remainder of the route.
At the base of the escarpment the trail enters pasture used to graze water buffaloes. The village of Arur Dalan (way point 15) comes into view shortly after (5.00 pm).
The villagers were very friendly and gave us directions for the remainder of the journey to Bario (ask for the airport, Tarawe's lodging house is one hundred meters from the control tower). There is basically only one path which passes alongside the long house and then continues through paddy fields, past the local school and on to Bario five kilometres or forty five minutes later (our first group reached Bario at 17.45 pm, the last - including our Kelabit guide, some two hours later after being ferried from Arur Dalan by moped!).
List of Waypoints (join at waypoint 4 if starting from Limbang)
Waypoint
Description
Co-ordinates
Time
(Timbali)
1
Long Temala
N 03° 49' 38.2"
12.30 hrs
Logging concession roadhead on Baram River
E 114° 27' 55.0"
2
Logging Road
N 03° 48' 09.3"
West of Long Atip
E 114° 56' 13.2"
3
Logging Road
N 03° 57' 30.9"
Area South of Gunung Mulu
E 115° 02' 36.5"
4
Logging Road
N 04° 01' 57.9"
Just after joining North - South logging road
E 115° 07' 15.4"
from Limbang through WTK concession
5
Logging Road
N 03° 59' 28.0"
Heading South through WTK concession.
E 115° 08' 19.3"
6
Logging Road
N 03° 57' 39.8"
Heading South through WTK concession
E 115° 10' 06.7"
7
WTK Base Camp
N 03° 55' 59.1"
Turn left just before the camp and then take the
E 115° 11' 16.8"
right hand fork
8
Logging Road
N 03° 52' 13.8"
Continuing towards Jelita Camp.
E 115° 15' 10.5"
9
Pass over Bukit Batu Iran
N 03° 50' 28.3"
On the logging road to Jelita Camp
E 115° 15' 48.8"
10
WTK Jelita Camp
N 03° 50' 00.4"
Arrive 18.30 hrs
Overnight stop
E 115° 18' 41.5"
Depart 07.30 hrs
11
Logging Road
N 03° 48' 47.0"
Continue straight on, left hand turning continues to
E 115° 19' 20.8"
a high point which may offer a view of Batu Lawi
12
Bridge over Sungai Kubaan
N 03° 47' 28.5"
08.10 hrs
E 115° 19' 31.7"
13
Start of Trail
N 03° 47' 16.2"
08.15 hrs
Logging Road crosses Kubaan Trail which links
E 115° 19' 36.8"
Bario to Pa Tik
14
River Crossing
N 03° 47' 14.9"
11.05 hrs
Trail crosses (tributary of?) Sungai Kubaan
E 115° 22' 43.5"
Old hunting shelter - possibly Long Semirang
15
Arur Dalan
N 03° 45' 30.2"
17.00 hrs to
First Kampong on the Bario Plateau
E 115° 26' 25.0"
18.45 hrs
16
Bario
N 03° 44' 28.7"
17.45 hrs to
Way point taken next to old airfield at Tarawe's
E 115° 27' 42.8"
19.45 hrs
lodging house
Planning the Trip
This largely depends on how you reach the start of the trail and whether you need to return to pick up cars. I would certainly not recommend leaving cars unattended next to the start of the trail for any length of time unless you can find someone who would sleep next to them for a few dollars per day. If you are intending to make a return trip then either leave your cars at Jelita camp and hitch a lift to the trail or leave some of the less energetic members of your party behind to relax and camp for a few days exploring the logging concession by car. If you do not intend to return the same way then an option would be to hire transport in Limbang for a one way trip to the start of trail (Try Samson Bala if you need to arrange this - he has several relatives working in the area. His phone number is given later).
In theory, it would be possible to make a three day round trip i.e.:
First evening: Kuala Belait to Limbang
Day 1: Drive Limbang to Jelita or camp at S. Kubaan
Day 2: 9 - 11 hour walk to Bario
Day 3: 11.00 am flight to Miri via Marudi then KB by taxi
This, however, would leave no time to make excursions in Bario and the surrounding area, nor allow contingency for flight delays etc. Furthermore if your objective is to enjoy the Kubaan trail then why not take several days, perhaps making a detour to visit Kubaan or Pa Tik.
It is worth remembering that whilst we took up to eleven hours to walk the trail, we were hampered by each carrying up to 40lbs of equipment for our planned Batu Lawi climb (even four day's provisions that our guide had intended to give to porters and luxuries like beer and whiskey that we would have left at base camp to await our return). Either carry the minimum and make the journey in a single day or take full camping equipment and make more leisurely progress.
As an alternative to flying out from Bario, it would be possible to return the same way if you have transport waiting or to carry on overland to Bakalalan, some three days walk from Bario, where flights to the coast are said to be less weather dependent.
Jungle Driving
The route from Limbang to the start of the Kubaan trail follows the main logging highway through the concession. It is regularly maintained for use by heavy traffic and is navigable in any four wheel drive vehicle. Detailed advice on jungle driving is contained in a separate guide which includes "pace notes" for trips both from Miri and Limbang.
The most important point to remember is that not only do logging vehicles have the right of way (obviously) but that they also drive on either side of the road! This is not as chaotic as it sounds, but is a system to ensure that long, heavily laden trucks leaving the concession do not have to negotiate the outside of bends with dangerous drop offs. At any blind corner or when approaching the brow of a hill, look out for a small sign with a red arrow. This directs you to the correct side of the road at that particular point. Hopefully there will be a similar sign on the other side pointing oncoming traffic in the opposite direction!
In general be courteous to logging vehicles, pulling over to let them pass whenever necessary.
Around Bario
Most tourists who visit Bario do so as part of a major trip, such as the climb up Batu Lawi or Murud, or at one end of a long trek to or from Long Lelang or Bakalalan. Few people come to just spend time in Bario or one of the outlying villages on the Plains of Bah. This reflects the fact that there are almost no tourist facilities in the area nor well known places of interest to justify a specific journey to the highlands. Nevertheless it is worthwhile allowing time to experience the outstanding hospitality offered by the Kelabit people and, as a minimum, to see the unique wet paddy fields and their ancient irrigation system. If you are spending more time in Bario, either through choice or because of the notoriously unreliable air service, then there are a number of possibilities:
Rafting on the Baram - The main tributary of the Baram river rises on Mount Murud and flows south across the Bario Plateau. In this area it is slow moving and easily navigable by bamboo raft. During an earlier visit, ours was built by people from Pa Umor, a village about six kilometres north of Bario. Ask Samson Bala or his father (who still lives in the village) to arrange this.
Carved Monolith - There are several stone carvings in the Bario highlands which provide a link with the pre Christian traditional beliefs of the Kelabit people. One of the most accessible is on Samson's family land about fifteen minutes walk from Pa Umor. It is a large boulder about three meters in diameter which lies at the edge of a paddy field. The weathered carving on the upper side depicts a Kelabit man complete with extended earlobes, parang and collection of heads. It is said to be a memorial to a local warrior.
Pa Umor Salt Lick - Salt was an important commodity for the Kelabit people and was traded extensively during the last centuries. Today, one of the old salt springs at Pa Umor is occasionally used by families to gather their own supplies. The site is quite disappointing comprising only a brick lined well and an adjacent shelter where the brine is boiled for twenty-four hours to yield raw salt. We were told that the complete operation to chop firewood and boil sufficient brine to provide a family with a year's supply of salt would take about one week. The trip to the salt lick is worthwhile for the chance to see some of the wet paddy fields and water buffalo pastures typical of the Kelabit highlands. The path takes you along lanes which are more reminiscent of the European countryside than Borneo (they can be very muddy - take your boots!).
Figure 1 A schematic map with approximate walking times around Bario
A logging road now cuts this route between Pa Tik and Bario at a point where the trail follows the Sungai Kubaan valley. This opens up the possibility of a relatively easy overland route to Bario with one days driving on logging roads from Limbang followed by a walk of some 22 km. The walk can just be completed in one day although there are several suitable camping spots along the way (if you don't mind leeches!).
This route description draws partly on a number of driving trips made in 1993/94 and on an unsuccessful attempt to climb Batu Lawi in October 1995 when bad weather caused flight cancellations and forced us to find an alternative route into Bario.
Day One - Logging roads in Ulu Limbang
From Limbang drive to the WTK base camp at way point 7. This should take approximately six hours following the pace notes attached. The route follows the main logging road which links the WTK timber concession and the log ponds on the Limbang river at Medamit. It is a good quality sand road which is regularly maintained to allow passage of heavy logging trucks.
Note that if you have set off straight from Brunei after work and do not wish to spend the night in Limbang, a possible camp site (no water!) is located approximately 62 km after the check point on the way into the logging concession at N 04° 03' 49.8" E 115° 07' 15.3" (i.e. some 2.5 km before way point 4). There is a large flat area on the right hand side of the road which offers fantastic views over Mulu and Api to the west. The site is high on a hill side and the mist rising from the valley below in early morning is very beautiful.
Just before WTK camp there is a left hand turning with a fork in the road about one hundred meters later. Take the right hand fork which leads on to WTK Jelita camp. The scenery now becomes very spectacular as the road climbs over Bukit Batu Iran (way point 9) at over five thousand feet. At the highest points the primary rain forest can be seen to have given way to smaller stunted trees and ferns. Some exposed sandstone has the distinctive bleached white appearance which is characteristic of Batu Lawi.
Jelita camp (way point 10) is reached after about one hour's drive from WTK base camp. If it is becoming late, it is possible to stay in one of the huts on the camp to save making camp. Take care, however, not to make our mistake of accepting an invitation from one of the loggers without first paying your respects to the camp boss.
As an alternative to staying in the logging huts, suitable camp sites can be found either about forty minutes out of Jelita where the road crosses the wide Sungai Kubaan (way point 12) or, if you have even more time you could consider walking and making camp along the Kubaan trail. The first good spot is some 20 minutes walk along the trail where there are some old hunting huts next to the river. It is uncertain as to whether these huts can be opened or even whether their floors could still support any weight. Nevertheless it would be possible to sleep sheltered underneath them (they are some two meters off the ground) thus avoiding the need to carry tents.
In making this journey in October 1995 we did not set off from Limbang but from Marudi where we had become stranded following cancellation of all flights to Bario. We then needed to travel by express boat upriver to Long Temala (two hours thirty minutes), hire two Toyota pickups and drive eastward, passing close to Long Atip, Mulu and Long Seridan before emerging on the logging roads south of Limbang about half way to WTK camp (close to way point 4). This is much longer than driving from Limbang (we took express boats at 9.00 am but did not reach Jelita until after dark) and would only be interesting if your journey originated from Miri. Further details of the logging roads in the area south of Mulu can be found in the pace notes for the journey from Limbang to Mulu National Park.
Day Two - The Kubaan Trail
The logging road cuts the trail at way point 13, on the brow of a hill a few hundred meters beyond the bridge over Sungai Kubaan. In October 1995, this point was quite distinct with a small shelter having been built by Punans gathering special hard timber used for making long house foundation poles. Note that the air map is incorrect at this point as it places the trail some 800 meters north of Sungai Kubaan whereas comparison of way points 12 and 13 show it to be clearly south of the river.
The trail on the right (western) side of the road leads to the (abandoned) long house at Kubaan and the Punan settlement at Pa Tik. Judging from the distance shown on the map and the type of terrain, Pa Tik should be able to be reached after about half a days walk, offering an alternative to Bario for those who wanted to make a shorter trip.
The path to Bario begins on the left (eastern) side of the road. After about twenty meters there is a sharp right turn as the trail leaves the area cleared by the Punan hunters. We started walking at 8.15 am.
After twenty minutes (8.35 am) the trail emerges into a small clearing next to the river (probably still Sungai Kubaan) where two hunting shelters have been built. Do not take the path to the river but continue past the huts with the river some ten meters away on your left hand side. The Kubaan trail continues at the other side of the clearing.
A further twenty minutes later (8.55 am) the path forks at a small stream which must be a tributary to Sungai Kubaan. Take the left (more distinct) path and ford the stream. Although not very visible before you cross, the path on the other side is wide and obvious.
There is another stream crossing twenty minutes later (9.15 am), this time using a large fallen tree. The trail in this area seemed to be generally following a north easterly direction, contrary to the air map which shows a steady south easterly path. This suggests that the distance walked is considerably longer than the straight line between way points 13 and 16 (which are some 16.5 km apart).
Although the path is wide and easy as it covers level ground, there are several sections where it follows the sides of steep river valleys. Here, although there is little danger of falling any distance, it can be slippery and difficult to find firm footholds.
Eventually, after a further thirty five minutes (9.50 am) the trail descends to Sungai Kubaan. It is now necessary to ford the river from the right hand to left hand banks (facing upstream). The river is some twenty meters wide and waist deep in places, in October 1995, a steel cable had been fixed across the river to allow it to be crossed safely. After heavy rain the river level will rise considerably (as could be seen from the surrounding banks, trees and boulders) - crossing would then be very difficult.
The trail continues on the other side of the river, slowly climbing up the step valley.
One hour after the river crossing (10.50 am) a log bridge crosses a deep stream gully. As an alternative to crossing the slippery log, it is possible to go to the left and scramble up and down each bank.
Fifteen minutes later (11.05 am) it is necessary to ford another wide river (way point 14). This place may be Long Semirang - an old settlement which is marked on a number of maps but is no longer permanently inhabited. The location of this way point on the air map, and the fact that the river is carrying significantly less water than at the earlier crossing, suggests that this is not Sungai Kubaan but it's main tributary, which the trail now follows all the way to the watershed at the edge of the plateau. On the other side of the river there is a cross-roads with paths to the left and right leading to small huts or hunting shelters. Continue straight ahead.
After forty five minutes (11.50 am) it is necessary to scramble in and out of a deep gully where a log bridge had collapsed. We needed to push through thick rattan, indicating that whilst some sections of the trail are still used by hunters (we saw footprints in several places) the whole length of the path is seldom used. It is only the fact that the trail is in the shade of the forest canopy that prevents it from being slowly overgrown.
The trail descends back towards the river and after ten minutes (12.00 pm) there is a small clearing next to the river with a very old hunting shelter. There are several trails leaving this point and this gave us our greatest uncertainty during the trip.
Standing in the clearing with the river in front of you (flowing right to left) and the shelter on your left, there is one path that continues to your right up the river bank. This leads, after about fifty meters, to a clearing containing a number of old Punan shelters - it is not the correct path. To find the continuation of the trail, cross the river and follow the opposite bank upstream for some twenty meters. Once you reach it the path is wide and distinct although it is not readily visible from the river (do not make the mistake of continuing on the small track which goes steeply uphill directly opposite the hunting shelter).
We stopped here for lunch, sitting on boulders in the water to protect ourselves from the leeches which infested the area. From our position in the river (which was at that time only about thirty centimetres deep) we could see debris in tree branches at least one meter above us. After heavy rainfall it may be necessary to wait here for the water level to fall.
After the lunch stop, the trail swings more definitely south east and begins to climb up to the plateau. The three hour climb (the first of our group arrived on the watershed at around 3.45 pm) is gradual at first becoming steeper in the final sections.
The trail follows the stream to it's source, crossing it at least ten times on the way. During our trip the water level was fairly low and the stream could easily be forded. In many places, however, there were rough log bridges above the stream indicating that the water levels are frequently much higher.
The trail under the forest canopy is very distinct although in several places fallen trees block the path and it is necessary to make detours to search for the correct continuation. The lack of well worn routes around these obstacles is further evidence that the trail is seldom used today.
At two points, approximately half way to the watershed, the trail follows the bed of the stream for short distances. The first begins just before a sharp left hand bend in the stream where there are deep pools and a steep left hand bank. The path, which must once have followed close to the bank, has been washed away but resumes straight ahead on the opposite bank, on the other side of a fallen tree, and then follows the right hand bank upstream.
The second is a longer stretch of more than a hundred meters, higher up the escarpment, where the stream is much smaller. Here the trail follows the bed of the stream before emerging on the right hand bank. Along both of these sections, however, the sides of the stream are steep and it would be difficult to loose the correct trail. Furthermore the continuation of the path a few meters away from the bank is very distinct - we were confident that we were on the correct trail without the assistance of our guide who was by then at least one hour behind us (we left toilet paper to mark our route and prevent the group from becoming split up).
In the upper section of the trail there are several beautiful waterfalls and the tall trees of the primary rain forest begin to give way stunted, moss covered, species and giant ferns. The altitude at the pass over the Tamu Abu range is approximately 5,500 feet (tree cover prevented us from obtaining a proper fix). At this height, whilst the rain forest does begin to change, there is little evidence of the true "mossy forest" which can be found on the upper slopes of Mulu (7,800 feet), Trusmadi (8,700 feet) or even a few kilometres away at the other pass through the Tamu Abu cliffs on the way to Batu Lawi.
The last hundred meters to the pass follows a dry stream bed. There was no view point at the top although it would be possible to climb higher on either side of the trail (we didn't feel like it!). In any event we missed the "shattering views out over the whole interior" promised by Harrisson in his book (see later).
The first part of the descent into Bario follows the valley of a small river and is very similar to the climb on the other side of the pass, although perhaps with more mossy forest. The trail remains steep and slippery with many tree root for tired legs to trip over. This lasts for some forty five minutes (4.30 pm) until the trail begins to widen and the log bridges over small streams are constructed from sawn timber - evidence that civilisation is approaching.
At this point the trail passes a small dam in the river which provides a reservoir for the drinking water supply to the surrounding villages. The water pipe follows close to the path for the remainder of the route.
At the base of the escarpment the trail enters pasture used to graze water buffaloes. The village of Arur Dalan (way point 15) comes into view shortly after (5.00 pm).
The villagers were very friendly and gave us directions for the remainder of the journey to Bario (ask for the airport, Tarawe's lodging house is one hundred meters from the control tower). There is basically only one path which passes alongside the long house and then continues through paddy fields, past the local school and on to Bario five kilometres or forty five minutes later (our first group reached Bario at 17.45 pm, the last - including our Kelabit guide, some two hours later after being ferried from Arur Dalan by moped!).
List of Waypoints (join at waypoint 4 if starting from Limbang)
Waypoint
Description
Co-ordinates
Time
(Timbali)
1
Long Temala
N 03° 49' 38.2"
12.30 hrs
Logging concession roadhead on Baram River
E 114° 27' 55.0"
2
Logging Road
N 03° 48' 09.3"
West of Long Atip
E 114° 56' 13.2"
3
Logging Road
N 03° 57' 30.9"
Area South of Gunung Mulu
E 115° 02' 36.5"
4
Logging Road
N 04° 01' 57.9"
Just after joining North - South logging road
E 115° 07' 15.4"
from Limbang through WTK concession
5
Logging Road
N 03° 59' 28.0"
Heading South through WTK concession.
E 115° 08' 19.3"
6
Logging Road
N 03° 57' 39.8"
Heading South through WTK concession
E 115° 10' 06.7"
7
WTK Base Camp
N 03° 55' 59.1"
Turn left just before the camp and then take the
E 115° 11' 16.8"
right hand fork
8
Logging Road
N 03° 52' 13.8"
Continuing towards Jelita Camp.
E 115° 15' 10.5"
9
Pass over Bukit Batu Iran
N 03° 50' 28.3"
On the logging road to Jelita Camp
E 115° 15' 48.8"
10
WTK Jelita Camp
N 03° 50' 00.4"
Arrive 18.30 hrs
Overnight stop
E 115° 18' 41.5"
Depart 07.30 hrs
11
Logging Road
N 03° 48' 47.0"
Continue straight on, left hand turning continues to
E 115° 19' 20.8"
a high point which may offer a view of Batu Lawi
12
Bridge over Sungai Kubaan
N 03° 47' 28.5"
08.10 hrs
E 115° 19' 31.7"
13
Start of Trail
N 03° 47' 16.2"
08.15 hrs
Logging Road crosses Kubaan Trail which links
E 115° 19' 36.8"
Bario to Pa Tik
14
River Crossing
N 03° 47' 14.9"
11.05 hrs
Trail crosses (tributary of?) Sungai Kubaan
E 115° 22' 43.5"
Old hunting shelter - possibly Long Semirang
15
Arur Dalan
N 03° 45' 30.2"
17.00 hrs to
First Kampong on the Bario Plateau
E 115° 26' 25.0"
18.45 hrs
16
Bario
N 03° 44' 28.7"
17.45 hrs to
Way point taken next to old airfield at Tarawe's
E 115° 27' 42.8"
19.45 hrs
lodging house
Planning the Trip
This largely depends on how you reach the start of the trail and whether you need to return to pick up cars. I would certainly not recommend leaving cars unattended next to the start of the trail for any length of time unless you can find someone who would sleep next to them for a few dollars per day. If you are intending to make a return trip then either leave your cars at Jelita camp and hitch a lift to the trail or leave some of the less energetic members of your party behind to relax and camp for a few days exploring the logging concession by car. If you do not intend to return the same way then an option would be to hire transport in Limbang for a one way trip to the start of trail (Try Samson Bala if you need to arrange this - he has several relatives working in the area. His phone number is given later).
In theory, it would be possible to make a three day round trip i.e.:
First evening: Kuala Belait to Limbang
Day 1: Drive Limbang to Jelita or camp at S. Kubaan
Day 2: 9 - 11 hour walk to Bario
Day 3: 11.00 am flight to Miri via Marudi then KB by taxi
This, however, would leave no time to make excursions in Bario and the surrounding area, nor allow contingency for flight delays etc. Furthermore if your objective is to enjoy the Kubaan trail then why not take several days, perhaps making a detour to visit Kubaan or Pa Tik.
It is worth remembering that whilst we took up to eleven hours to walk the trail, we were hampered by each carrying up to 40lbs of equipment for our planned Batu Lawi climb (even four day's provisions that our guide had intended to give to porters and luxuries like beer and whiskey that we would have left at base camp to await our return). Either carry the minimum and make the journey in a single day or take full camping equipment and make more leisurely progress.
As an alternative to flying out from Bario, it would be possible to return the same way if you have transport waiting or to carry on overland to Bakalalan, some three days walk from Bario, where flights to the coast are said to be less weather dependent.
Jungle Driving
The route from Limbang to the start of the Kubaan trail follows the main logging highway through the concession. It is regularly maintained for use by heavy traffic and is navigable in any four wheel drive vehicle. Detailed advice on jungle driving is contained in a separate guide which includes "pace notes" for trips both from Miri and Limbang.
The most important point to remember is that not only do logging vehicles have the right of way (obviously) but that they also drive on either side of the road! This is not as chaotic as it sounds, but is a system to ensure that long, heavily laden trucks leaving the concession do not have to negotiate the outside of bends with dangerous drop offs. At any blind corner or when approaching the brow of a hill, look out for a small sign with a red arrow. This directs you to the correct side of the road at that particular point. Hopefully there will be a similar sign on the other side pointing oncoming traffic in the opposite direction!
In general be courteous to logging vehicles, pulling over to let them pass whenever necessary.
Around Bario
Most tourists who visit Bario do so as part of a major trip, such as the climb up Batu Lawi or Murud, or at one end of a long trek to or from Long Lelang or Bakalalan. Few people come to just spend time in Bario or one of the outlying villages on the Plains of Bah. This reflects the fact that there are almost no tourist facilities in the area nor well known places of interest to justify a specific journey to the highlands. Nevertheless it is worthwhile allowing time to experience the outstanding hospitality offered by the Kelabit people and, as a minimum, to see the unique wet paddy fields and their ancient irrigation system. If you are spending more time in Bario, either through choice or because of the notoriously unreliable air service, then there are a number of possibilities:
Rafting on the Baram - The main tributary of the Baram river rises on Mount Murud and flows south across the Bario Plateau. In this area it is slow moving and easily navigable by bamboo raft. During an earlier visit, ours was built by people from Pa Umor, a village about six kilometres north of Bario. Ask Samson Bala or his father (who still lives in the village) to arrange this.
Carved Monolith - There are several stone carvings in the Bario highlands which provide a link with the pre Christian traditional beliefs of the Kelabit people. One of the most accessible is on Samson's family land about fifteen minutes walk from Pa Umor. It is a large boulder about three meters in diameter which lies at the edge of a paddy field. The weathered carving on the upper side depicts a Kelabit man complete with extended earlobes, parang and collection of heads. It is said to be a memorial to a local warrior.
Pa Umor Salt Lick - Salt was an important commodity for the Kelabit people and was traded extensively during the last centuries. Today, one of the old salt springs at Pa Umor is occasionally used by families to gather their own supplies. The site is quite disappointing comprising only a brick lined well and an adjacent shelter where the brine is boiled for twenty-four hours to yield raw salt. We were told that the complete operation to chop firewood and boil sufficient brine to provide a family with a year's supply of salt would take about one week. The trip to the salt lick is worthwhile for the chance to see some of the wet paddy fields and water buffalo pastures typical of the Kelabit highlands. The path takes you along lanes which are more reminiscent of the European countryside than Borneo (they can be very muddy - take your boots!).
Figure 1 A schematic map with approximate walking times around Bario
Ascent of G. Mulu, by Penaga Club.
The first ascent of Mulu was made in 1932 by Edward Shackleton as a jaunt at the end of the 1932 Oxford University expedition to Borneo. The mountain had, before then, defied several attempts to climb it by various European explorers and members of Brooke's administration. Mulu is surrounded on all sides by steep escarpments and limestone cliffs which proved impassable to these early adventurers.
The route through the cliffs was discovered by chance by a rhinoceros hunter who tracked an animal along the course of the Sungai Melinau Paku river and up onto the ridge below the summit. Shortly afterwards, he guided Shackleton along this route which is still used by the tourist trail.
Mulu is one of the toughest mountain treks in North Borneo that is regularly made by tourists. The difficulty comes from the length of the trail (a round trip of some forty five kilometres) and the fact that the ascent to 2,376 meters (7,795 feet) begins close to sea level. Nevertheless it is well within the capabilities of a reasonably fit person and only lightweight packs need be carried since there are permanent wooden shelters at each of the overnight camp sites.
Day One
Depart National Park Headquarters (Waypoint 1) for the 5.6 km walk to Camp 1. The trail follows a plank walk for the first 500 meters before descending to the jungle floor. Just after the plank walk the path passes over some limestone outcrops and it is necessary to watch carefully for the red/white trail markers.
After 200 meters the path becomes distinct and wide, passing through generally low lying muddy ground with numerous log bridges over small streams. People who have made the trek in very wet conditions report that this section of the trail is prone to flooding.
After about one hours walk the trail crosses Sungai Melinau Paku (Waypoint 2). Spectacular limestone cliffs can be seen either side of the trail at this point. This is a good rest spot as it is about half way to Camp 1 and the shingle on the river bank is relatively free from leeches.
For the next 2 - 3 km the trail continues through low lying primary rain forest, past the turn off to the Sarawak Chamber and slowly ascends to Camp 1 at approximately 150 meters (Waypoint 3). 500 meters before Camp 1 the path crosses a fast moving stream. There are (slippery) stepping stones but it will be necessary to wade unless the water level is very low (if you have managed to keep your boots dry up to this point take them off and carry them as you should then be able to continue for most of the next dry with dry feet).
The total journey time to Camp 1 is approximately 2 hours including a short stop at Waypoint 2.
Camp 1 is a partially enclosed hut with a raised sleeping area which should accommodate 12 people comfortably. There are separate toilets and a good spot for bathing and filling water bottles at a stream 20 meters away. Food is cooked over an open fire just outside the hut.
Day Two
The trail from Camp 1 ascends gradually at first towards Camp 2 at the 7.5 km marker. This is not a permanent camp but a small clearing on the right hand side of the path by a small stream and is the last guaranteed water source before Camp 3 at 11.8 km. If you have left Camp 1 with 2 - 3 litres it will probably not be worth filling up here.
After Camp 2 the trail becomes increasingly steep with sections between the 10 km marker and Camp 3 requiring the use of hands to pull yourself up through tree roots and small saplings. Immediately before Camp 3 the path levels through a boggy area where a number of planks have been placed across the trail. This area is frequently cloud covered and moss covers most of the trees.
Camp 3, at approximately 1300 meters (Waypoint 5) marks the halfway point on day two. It is reached after just over three hours walk and is a good lunch stop. There is a hut of similar (but more recent) construction to Camp 1, with toilets and water available from rainwater tanks.
After Camp 3 there is a very steep 2 km ascent up Bukit Tumau to the ridge which leads to Camp 4 and the summit. At a number of points ropes have been placed to assist where the trail is steepest and hand/foot holds most difficult to find. Erosion along the path indicates that it would form a small stream in heavy rain.
The 14 km point, at approximately 1500 meters (Waypoint 6), marks the end of the main ascent and the start of the ridge. From here to Camp 4 the path is relatively level with only gradual ascents/descents as the trail climbs slowly for almost 5 km towards Camp 4 at 1800 meters. There is now a distinctively different vegetation with the low level primary rain forest having given way to small stunted trees and bushes. Large pitcher plants are also in abundance. At several places along the ridge there are good view points across the Mulu mountain range.
Camp 4 at 18.8 km (Waypoint 8) is a very simple raised hut with four corrugated iron walls and roof. The eaves are open to let out the smoke from the fire which is used for cooking and for warmth. The helipad which was used to ferry in building materials is 50 meters further down the trail and affords good views of the next day's ascent to the summit.
Day Three
The ascent to the summit from Camp 4 takes approximately 1.5 hours. This means that the signpost at Park Headquarters, which indicates the total distance of the summit trail as 24 km, must be wrong. The last trail marker outside Camp 4 shows 19.5 km from where we estimated that it was no more than 2.5 km to the summit.
Three distinct peaks of increasing height can be seen from the Camp 4 helipad. These are actually only points where the trail climbs less steeply and there seem to be no distinct "valleys" between each peak.
The trail is very steep in places with almost vertical stretches where it is necessary to make use of fixed ropes. The vegetation has also changed to the "mossy forest" or "cloud forest" with all the stunted trees covered in a thick layer of moss. The slopes here a frequently covered in cloud and everything is wet for the majority of the time.
After the first steep ascent, where the trail levels at the first "peak" (Waypoint 9), there is a very good view back along the previous day's trail. Bukit Tumau, the ridge from the 14 km marker to Camp 4 and the helipad can be clearly seen.
The main summit is large and relatively flat with two distinct high points. The first one reached (Waypoint 10) is about 50 meters lower than the second (Waypoint 1l), 150 meters away, where there is a trig. point and an abandoned weather station.
There then follows the long descent to Camp 1 which will take approximately 7 hours, including short meal breaks at Camps 4 & 3.
Day Four
Following a night at Camp 1, return to Park Headquarters.
Waypoint
Description
Co-ordinates
Arrival Time
Arrival Time
on Ascent
on Descent
1
Park HQ
N 04° 02' 33 1"
Departed 13.20 hrs
E 114° 48' 38.7"
2
S Melinau Paku River
N 04° 02' 53.3"
14.20 hrs
Crossing
E 114° 50' 00.9"
3
Camp I (Helipad)
N 04° 03' 06.9"
15.20 hrs
14.45-15.45 hrs
E 114° 51' 10.4"
Departed 07.20 hrs
4
10 km Marker
N 04° 02' 20.3"
09.15 hrs
E 114° 52' 36.2"
._
5
Camp 3 Helipad
N 04° 02' 19.5"
10.30 hrs
E 114° 53' 06.5"
6
14 km Marker
N 04° 01' 58.6"
12.20 hrs
E 114° 53' 26.6"
7
17 km Marker
N 04° 02' 28.3"
13.45 hrs
E 114° 54' 10.8"
8
Camp 4
N 04° 02' 41.7"
14.20-15.50 hrs
09.40 hrs
E 114° 54' 39.9"
Departed 06.40 hrs
9
First "Peak" on the Summit Ascent
N 04° 02' 51.4"
07.30 hrs
E 114° 55' 06.4"
10
Mulu Summit - First High
N 04° 02' 45.0"
08.10 hrs
Point
E 114° 55' 29.5"
11
Mulu Summit - Trig. Point
N 04° 02' 47.1"
08.20 hrs
Departed 08.40 hrs
E 114° 55' 37.2"
Timing
Our trip lasted four days/three nights with two overnight stops at Camp and one at Camp 4. The disadvantage of this is that whilst days 1 & 4 are short 2 hour walks to/from Park HQ, days 2 & 3 are very long slogs. With a reasonably early start, it would certainly be possible to reach Camp 3 on day 1 which would then reduce the following day's ascent to Camp 4. This would also open up the possibility of reaching the summit on day 2, leaving the option of descending either to Camp 1 or to Park HQ on day 3.
This alternative itinerary may, however, not be popular with the guides who seem to use the short day 1 to assess their customers' fitness. It would also mean that the first day's provisions would need to be portered further up the mountain to Camp 3 rather than to Camp 1. It should also be noted that Camp 3 will be cold at night whilst Camp 1 is comfortably warm.
Several weeks after our trip, two other groups tried this alternative itinerary. One group, who arrived in the park the previous evening, made an early start and reached camp 3 in late afternoon. The following day they were able to make a round trip to the summit with only light packs (waterproofs, lunch etc.), returning to camp 3 by early evening. The second group, however, flew into Mulu in the morning, attempted to reach camp 3 the same day but were forced to turn back to camp 1 when it became clear that they would not reach camp 3 by nightfall.
Equipment
The equipment list is attached in appendix 1 - each persons rucksack weighed just over 10 kg, including water. The most important things to note are that overnight accommodation is in huts so no camping equipment is required and that cooking/eating equipment is provided by the guides. Camp 4 is very cold at night and a lightweight sleeping bag and an extra layer of warm clothes are indispensable. A black plastic bin liner was also useful to cover the end of the sleeping bag and preserve warmth. Essentials for this trip is insect repellent and salt to remove leeches.
Food
Food provided by the guides is basic but adequate. Rice, "maggie mee", eggs and tinned meat/fish feature in most meals. The only food that you will need to take are luxuries such as biscuits, nuts, crisps and muselie bars. Two tips that were useful on our trip were:
Buy fruit flavoured glucose powder (available from any supermarket) and add it to drinking water, possibly with a little salt. This takes away the taste of the Puritabs that you will have added, provides energy and helps guard against mineral loss from dehydration.
Take Alpen or other high energy muselie in a plastic screw top jar together with some milk powder. This is light and, with water added, can be used to supplement breakfast or lunch.
Guides
Our trip of seven persons was accompanied by three "guides":
The National Park ranger whose presence is mandatory although he was of little use. He was, however, the only one of the three to make it all the way to the summit.
A Punan porter who carried the park ranger's gear and about half the food. He made the complete ascent to Camp 4 barefoot!
The Tropical Adventure "tour guide" who carried much of the food and cooked all the meals. Although he was pleasant and helpful, he had never made it to the summit before (his other trips had all turned back) and he had little information to offer on the local flora, fauna or geography. Remember that the guides get paid whether you make it to the summit or not. Mulu guides are notorious for spreading gloom and despondency or setting a crippling pace in the hope that you will turn back and they may get home a night early. Keep your own pace.
Also do not rely on the guides to stick with the back marker, in spite of the fact that there are many places to slip and fall. It is inevitable that members of the party will not all keep the same pace but do try to keep in groups of two or three.
The route through the cliffs was discovered by chance by a rhinoceros hunter who tracked an animal along the course of the Sungai Melinau Paku river and up onto the ridge below the summit. Shortly afterwards, he guided Shackleton along this route which is still used by the tourist trail.
Mulu is one of the toughest mountain treks in North Borneo that is regularly made by tourists. The difficulty comes from the length of the trail (a round trip of some forty five kilometres) and the fact that the ascent to 2,376 meters (7,795 feet) begins close to sea level. Nevertheless it is well within the capabilities of a reasonably fit person and only lightweight packs need be carried since there are permanent wooden shelters at each of the overnight camp sites.
Day One
Depart National Park Headquarters (Waypoint 1) for the 5.6 km walk to Camp 1. The trail follows a plank walk for the first 500 meters before descending to the jungle floor. Just after the plank walk the path passes over some limestone outcrops and it is necessary to watch carefully for the red/white trail markers.
After 200 meters the path becomes distinct and wide, passing through generally low lying muddy ground with numerous log bridges over small streams. People who have made the trek in very wet conditions report that this section of the trail is prone to flooding.
After about one hours walk the trail crosses Sungai Melinau Paku (Waypoint 2). Spectacular limestone cliffs can be seen either side of the trail at this point. This is a good rest spot as it is about half way to Camp 1 and the shingle on the river bank is relatively free from leeches.
For the next 2 - 3 km the trail continues through low lying primary rain forest, past the turn off to the Sarawak Chamber and slowly ascends to Camp 1 at approximately 150 meters (Waypoint 3). 500 meters before Camp 1 the path crosses a fast moving stream. There are (slippery) stepping stones but it will be necessary to wade unless the water level is very low (if you have managed to keep your boots dry up to this point take them off and carry them as you should then be able to continue for most of the next dry with dry feet).
The total journey time to Camp 1 is approximately 2 hours including a short stop at Waypoint 2.
Camp 1 is a partially enclosed hut with a raised sleeping area which should accommodate 12 people comfortably. There are separate toilets and a good spot for bathing and filling water bottles at a stream 20 meters away. Food is cooked over an open fire just outside the hut.
Day Two
The trail from Camp 1 ascends gradually at first towards Camp 2 at the 7.5 km marker. This is not a permanent camp but a small clearing on the right hand side of the path by a small stream and is the last guaranteed water source before Camp 3 at 11.8 km. If you have left Camp 1 with 2 - 3 litres it will probably not be worth filling up here.
After Camp 2 the trail becomes increasingly steep with sections between the 10 km marker and Camp 3 requiring the use of hands to pull yourself up through tree roots and small saplings. Immediately before Camp 3 the path levels through a boggy area where a number of planks have been placed across the trail. This area is frequently cloud covered and moss covers most of the trees.
Camp 3, at approximately 1300 meters (Waypoint 5) marks the halfway point on day two. It is reached after just over three hours walk and is a good lunch stop. There is a hut of similar (but more recent) construction to Camp 1, with toilets and water available from rainwater tanks.
After Camp 3 there is a very steep 2 km ascent up Bukit Tumau to the ridge which leads to Camp 4 and the summit. At a number of points ropes have been placed to assist where the trail is steepest and hand/foot holds most difficult to find. Erosion along the path indicates that it would form a small stream in heavy rain.
The 14 km point, at approximately 1500 meters (Waypoint 6), marks the end of the main ascent and the start of the ridge. From here to Camp 4 the path is relatively level with only gradual ascents/descents as the trail climbs slowly for almost 5 km towards Camp 4 at 1800 meters. There is now a distinctively different vegetation with the low level primary rain forest having given way to small stunted trees and bushes. Large pitcher plants are also in abundance. At several places along the ridge there are good view points across the Mulu mountain range.
Camp 4 at 18.8 km (Waypoint 8) is a very simple raised hut with four corrugated iron walls and roof. The eaves are open to let out the smoke from the fire which is used for cooking and for warmth. The helipad which was used to ferry in building materials is 50 meters further down the trail and affords good views of the next day's ascent to the summit.
Day Three
The ascent to the summit from Camp 4 takes approximately 1.5 hours. This means that the signpost at Park Headquarters, which indicates the total distance of the summit trail as 24 km, must be wrong. The last trail marker outside Camp 4 shows 19.5 km from where we estimated that it was no more than 2.5 km to the summit.
Three distinct peaks of increasing height can be seen from the Camp 4 helipad. These are actually only points where the trail climbs less steeply and there seem to be no distinct "valleys" between each peak.
The trail is very steep in places with almost vertical stretches where it is necessary to make use of fixed ropes. The vegetation has also changed to the "mossy forest" or "cloud forest" with all the stunted trees covered in a thick layer of moss. The slopes here a frequently covered in cloud and everything is wet for the majority of the time.
After the first steep ascent, where the trail levels at the first "peak" (Waypoint 9), there is a very good view back along the previous day's trail. Bukit Tumau, the ridge from the 14 km marker to Camp 4 and the helipad can be clearly seen.
The main summit is large and relatively flat with two distinct high points. The first one reached (Waypoint 10) is about 50 meters lower than the second (Waypoint 1l), 150 meters away, where there is a trig. point and an abandoned weather station.
There then follows the long descent to Camp 1 which will take approximately 7 hours, including short meal breaks at Camps 4 & 3.
Day Four
Following a night at Camp 1, return to Park Headquarters.
Waypoint
Description
Co-ordinates
Arrival Time
Arrival Time
on Ascent
on Descent
1
Park HQ
N 04° 02' 33 1"
Departed 13.20 hrs
E 114° 48' 38.7"
2
S Melinau Paku River
N 04° 02' 53.3"
14.20 hrs
Crossing
E 114° 50' 00.9"
3
Camp I (Helipad)
N 04° 03' 06.9"
15.20 hrs
14.45-15.45 hrs
E 114° 51' 10.4"
Departed 07.20 hrs
4
10 km Marker
N 04° 02' 20.3"
09.15 hrs
E 114° 52' 36.2"
._
5
Camp 3 Helipad
N 04° 02' 19.5"
10.30 hrs
E 114° 53' 06.5"
6
14 km Marker
N 04° 01' 58.6"
12.20 hrs
E 114° 53' 26.6"
7
17 km Marker
N 04° 02' 28.3"
13.45 hrs
E 114° 54' 10.8"
8
Camp 4
N 04° 02' 41.7"
14.20-15.50 hrs
09.40 hrs
E 114° 54' 39.9"
Departed 06.40 hrs
9
First "Peak" on the Summit Ascent
N 04° 02' 51.4"
07.30 hrs
E 114° 55' 06.4"
10
Mulu Summit - First High
N 04° 02' 45.0"
08.10 hrs
Point
E 114° 55' 29.5"
11
Mulu Summit - Trig. Point
N 04° 02' 47.1"
08.20 hrs
Departed 08.40 hrs
E 114° 55' 37.2"
Timing
Our trip lasted four days/three nights with two overnight stops at Camp and one at Camp 4. The disadvantage of this is that whilst days 1 & 4 are short 2 hour walks to/from Park HQ, days 2 & 3 are very long slogs. With a reasonably early start, it would certainly be possible to reach Camp 3 on day 1 which would then reduce the following day's ascent to Camp 4. This would also open up the possibility of reaching the summit on day 2, leaving the option of descending either to Camp 1 or to Park HQ on day 3.
This alternative itinerary may, however, not be popular with the guides who seem to use the short day 1 to assess their customers' fitness. It would also mean that the first day's provisions would need to be portered further up the mountain to Camp 3 rather than to Camp 1. It should also be noted that Camp 3 will be cold at night whilst Camp 1 is comfortably warm.
Several weeks after our trip, two other groups tried this alternative itinerary. One group, who arrived in the park the previous evening, made an early start and reached camp 3 in late afternoon. The following day they were able to make a round trip to the summit with only light packs (waterproofs, lunch etc.), returning to camp 3 by early evening. The second group, however, flew into Mulu in the morning, attempted to reach camp 3 the same day but were forced to turn back to camp 1 when it became clear that they would not reach camp 3 by nightfall.
Equipment
The equipment list is attached in appendix 1 - each persons rucksack weighed just over 10 kg, including water. The most important things to note are that overnight accommodation is in huts so no camping equipment is required and that cooking/eating equipment is provided by the guides. Camp 4 is very cold at night and a lightweight sleeping bag and an extra layer of warm clothes are indispensable. A black plastic bin liner was also useful to cover the end of the sleeping bag and preserve warmth. Essentials for this trip is insect repellent and salt to remove leeches.
Food
Food provided by the guides is basic but adequate. Rice, "maggie mee", eggs and tinned meat/fish feature in most meals. The only food that you will need to take are luxuries such as biscuits, nuts, crisps and muselie bars. Two tips that were useful on our trip were:
Buy fruit flavoured glucose powder (available from any supermarket) and add it to drinking water, possibly with a little salt. This takes away the taste of the Puritabs that you will have added, provides energy and helps guard against mineral loss from dehydration.
Take Alpen or other high energy muselie in a plastic screw top jar together with some milk powder. This is light and, with water added, can be used to supplement breakfast or lunch.
Guides
Our trip of seven persons was accompanied by three "guides":
The National Park ranger whose presence is mandatory although he was of little use. He was, however, the only one of the three to make it all the way to the summit.
A Punan porter who carried the park ranger's gear and about half the food. He made the complete ascent to Camp 4 barefoot!
The Tropical Adventure "tour guide" who carried much of the food and cooked all the meals. Although he was pleasant and helpful, he had never made it to the summit before (his other trips had all turned back) and he had little information to offer on the local flora, fauna or geography. Remember that the guides get paid whether you make it to the summit or not. Mulu guides are notorious for spreading gloom and despondency or setting a crippling pace in the hope that you will turn back and they may get home a night early. Keep your own pace.
Also do not rely on the guides to stick with the back marker, in spite of the fact that there are many places to slip and fall. It is inevitable that members of the party will not all keep the same pace but do try to keep in groups of two or three.
Friday, December 12, 2008
Letters from Roy Follows: part 6.
Dear Tan.
Ref Fort Kemar .Thanks for translating the words on the stone for me. You question REC ? Perhaps the tukang batu was a little mabok at the time , and instead of chiselling out REG which is short for Regiment , but with his kepala pusing he did REC instead .
More on Fort Kemar. I think I mentioned before, that a police friend of mine was in charge of the building and establishing Fort Kemar and the fort was built mainly by men of the Malay Police Force of No 20, Police Jungle Company, and with only a small unit of the British SAS = Special Air Service Reg . So to put the record straight and give credit where it's due, ie to the Royal Malaysian Police , the tukang batu ( tadak mabok) should by rights bikin lagi batu.
It's most kind of you and gratefully appreciated by me, of you inviting me to register /sign up for gmail, but like the tukang batu , my kepala pusing pusing, but through trying to work my computer and not through minuman lah . So because of not being a whizz kid at the magic machine, I reluctantly will have to decline your kind offer.
Thanks again
Best wishes
Roy
Ref Fort Kemar .Thanks for translating the words on the stone for me. You question REC ? Perhaps the tukang batu was a little mabok at the time , and instead of chiselling out REG which is short for Regiment , but with his kepala pusing he did REC instead .
More on Fort Kemar. I think I mentioned before, that a police friend of mine was in charge of the building and establishing Fort Kemar and the fort was built mainly by men of the Malay Police Force of No 20, Police Jungle Company, and with only a small unit of the British SAS = Special Air Service Reg . So to put the record straight and give credit where it's due, ie to the Royal Malaysian Police , the tukang batu ( tadak mabok) should by rights bikin lagi batu.
It's most kind of you and gratefully appreciated by me, of you inviting me to register /sign up for gmail, but like the tukang batu , my kepala pusing pusing, but through trying to work my computer and not through minuman lah . So because of not being a whizz kid at the magic machine, I reluctantly will have to decline your kind offer.
Thanks again
Best wishes
Roy
Thursday, December 11, 2008
Letters from Roy Follows; part 5
Dear Tan.
With regards to the photograph of stone description aabout Fort Kemar. With me not speaking Malayu for many years Sahay lupa lah. Boleh tolong sayah. I f no trouble to you , could you please be kind enough and write out for me all the words in English of those what are on the stone . I require them for the caption of the photograph,which the transaltion must be correct . Would you have any idea when the photograph was taken ?I've been exchanging some intersting emails with your good friend Goh , but have not cracked the Cc yet , so I hope I've missed no one out.
Still banyak sejok sini, in fact I've had to buy a new heater for my room so to keep a panas . Other than in mountains you do not have this problem in Malaysia.
Jagan lupa nasihat Hantu delam Hutan.Thanks again.
Makan ini malam Curry Plendok dan ikan bilis.
Best wishesRoy
With regards to the photograph of stone description aabout Fort Kemar. With me not speaking Malayu for many years Sahay lupa lah. Boleh tolong sayah. I f no trouble to you , could you please be kind enough and write out for me all the words in English of those what are on the stone . I require them for the caption of the photograph,which the transaltion must be correct . Would you have any idea when the photograph was taken ?I've been exchanging some intersting emails with your good friend Goh , but have not cracked the Cc yet , so I hope I've missed no one out.
Still banyak sejok sini, in fact I've had to buy a new heater for my room so to keep a panas . Other than in mountains you do not have this problem in Malaysia.
Jagan lupa nasihat Hantu delam Hutan.Thanks again.
Makan ini malam Curry Plendok dan ikan bilis.
Best wishesRoy
Wednesday, December 10, 2008
Dear Goh,
Further to the the map of the Fort Brooke area . The attached is part of an original map/s that I had with me when I was in the fort. It is map sheet 2n/6 compilied from data way back in 1931 and 1949, scale 1inch to the mile . The cross in the box, map ref 383 828 is Fort Brooke. To make jungle navigation a little more difficult, theres no features shown, it's not charted . But from my own expirence patrolling in this then unkown territory- a lost world - was mountainous , of which your up to date map shows. With not knowing the scale of your map , or the type , unless I'm mistaken the grid lines do not agree with those on my map.- Strange . According to helicopter pilots who often came to the Fort, the height ASL of the landing zone (LZ ) which was along the river and below the fort was 2,300 ASL . South of the fort is the Sg Nenggiri which was also called Sg Brok. This Sg, joined by others flows close to the fort compound, where part of it acted as a defence obstacle against attack . Many people wrongly presume, that the fort took its name from the Sg Brok , and that some how the word came distorted to that of Brooke (Brok = Brooke ) How the fort realy came by its name. It was built in 1953 by the SAS along with members of a Police Jungle company. The Commanding Officer of the SAS in Malaya at the time was Colonel Brooke, and the Fort was named after the CO of the SAS Col Brooke.
Some of the twelve forts were named after a nearby rivers, but Fort Dixon south westish of K Lipis Pahang was named after a Police officer who I knew. It was while leading an attack on a communist camp, that Police Lieutentant Dixon was killed. The place he met his death, was close to where a jungle fort was in the progress of being built, and in his honour they named it Fort Dixon.Bayak sejok sini, dan ayer batu atas jalan. I'd sooner be wading chest deep through a tidal mangrove swamp, along the then uninhabited SE coastal region of Johore, than jalan kaki atas ayer batu. Thank you.
Best wishesRoy
Jangan lupa. Hantu Hutan.
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